Herptiles.net - Chinese Fire Belly Newt Caresheet

Experience level: Beginner (suitable as a first herp)

I. Introduction

Chinese Fire Belly Newts, Cynops orientalis (David 1873) are semi-aquatic tailed amphibians from eastern China. It is apparently a common species in temperate and subtropical forests and grasslands, and can be found in shaded pools of cool, still water. They make interesting aquarium animals when provided a suitable habitat- they are very active and curious.

These newts are very common in the pet trade, although most animals are probably wild caught. They are sometimes called Dwarf Fire Belly Newts, or Oriental Fire Belly Newts.

There is often confusion between C. orientalis and other dark-backed, bright-bellied salamander species. The Japanese Fire Belly Newt, C. pyrrhogaster, is much larger than the Chinese (9-13 cm or 3.5-5") and has rougher, wartier skin. Other newts species like the paddle-tail newts (Pachytriton sp.) and warty newts (Paramesotriton sp.) are sometimes mistakenly labelled as fire-bellies. See Caudata Culture's article, What kind of Fire Belly is it? (by Heather Björnebo) for an excellent comparison between C. orientalis and these other species.

This species can easily live between 10-20 years in captivity.

Distribution of Cynops orientalis

II. Taxonomy

All "true" newts are members of the caudate family Salamandridae, the newts and true or European salamanders. The genus Cynops is often referred to as the fire belly newts as a group.

All newts are members of Salamandridae, but not all members of this family are newts. Newts are distinguished from salamanders by their life cycle. Females lay eggs in the water, the larvae hatch and metamorphose into miniature adults. They have a terrestrial life stage called the eft, that can last between 1-7 years depending on the species and location, then return to a mostly aquatic lifestyle as adults. Adults may occasionally venture onto land. Salamanders are aquatic as larvae and terrestrial as adults, or completely aquatic their entire life.

III. Description

Fire belly newts are camouflaged from the top... ...but display aposematic colouration on their underside. This bright colouration means "Don't eat me, I'm toxic!"

This is a small species, adults typically have a STL of 6-10.3 cm (2.2-4"). It looks like a typical newt: A lizard-like body lacking claws (like most amphibians), a rounded, frog-like head and a paddle-shaped tail. The tail is about the same length as the body, but males have a slightly shorter and taller, more paddle-like tail than females (see Sexing, below).

The dorsal surface of their body is black or dark gray, some individuals may turn light gray for a varying period of time, for an unknown reason. Its belly is a strikingly bright orange or red, usually with black blotches, almost like a marble pattern. This is an example of aposematic colouration, the bright colours are meant to warn predators that the newt is to eat because of toxic skin secretions.

Adults and aquatic larvae have smooth skin, terrestrial juveniles (young metamorphs) and adults that spend more time out of the water tend to have a slightly rougher, more granular skin. Parotid glands are obvious on the back of the head. Two lines of small light-coloured dots are visible on each side of the body, one near the margin of the belly's red colouration and one closer to the spine. This is the lateral line system, that detect disturbances in the water surrounding the newt.

The skin is humid and porous, and needs to stay damp. Because of the nature of the skin, you should never handle your newts unless absolutely necessary, and in that case, either wash and rinse your hands extremely well beforehand, or use an aquarium fish net. The secretions from human skin (sweat and sebum [oil]) are harmful to amphibians' delicate skin. After handling, be sure to wash your hands very well to avoid accidentally introducing some of the amphibian's skin secretions into your eyes, nose or mouth.

As mentioned before, these newts' bright colours are meant as a warning, their skin secretes a neurotoxin (called tetrodotoxin; most newt species produce this in varying concentrations). The amount of tetrodotoxin in these newts may be able to kill small animals, and can easily irritate the eyes, mucous membranes and mouth if the toxin comes in contact with them. If the toxin (or the entire newt) is swallowed, it can cause nausea, ataxia (loss of coordination), vomiting and numbness.

IV. Behaviour

This species is nocturnal, but it is not uncommon to see them active during daylight hours. They mostly crawl around the bottom of the enclosure underwater, probably foraging for food, and periodically swim in short bursts to the surface to breathe.

Adults will sometimes spend a significant time out of the water, or sitting in very shallow water. They may be escaping the water because it is unsuitable (check water parameters like temperature and pH), but they may do it for no apparent reason at all. If the animal continues to eat, does not appear to be losing weight or have any other obvious health problems, then this is not a cause for concern.

Like other amphibians, these newts will shed their skin during a process called ecdysis. They will typically eat their shed skin, a behaviour called dermatophagy.


While newts usually shed and eat their skin without you even knowing, it is not completely unusual to sometimes find bits of uneaten skin in the enclosure.

V. Diet

Very little is known about the natural diet of these newts, although it is speculated that wild fire-bellies eat a wide variety of aquatic invertebrates and other amphibian larvae.

Captive newts can be fed a variety of foods. Feeding live, fresh food is the best option, although live prey is not always available at all pet shops. Frozen/thawed foods can suffice, and freeze-dried or processed foods probably have the lowest nutritional value. Variety is the key to any diet, so try to offer at least three different kinds of food. If you are feeding live foods as a staple, then it is perfectly fine to supplement the diet with frozen/thawed or freeze-dried foods, but feeding these exclusively should be avoided.

In captivity, they seem to thrive on a varied diet of frozen/live bloodworms, frozen/live tubifex worms, frozen mosquito larvae, daphnia, white worms, black worms, and live, chopped (or small) nightcrawler and red wiggler earthworms.

Commercial "frog and newt pellets" are a not a good choice for food. They tend to have a poor nutritional value and not all newts will eat them.

Live fish from a reputable source can be fed occasionally, but not all newts will accept them. There is the risk of the fish transmitting parasites to the newt when eaten, so captive bred fish from a clean, healthy source are a must. Fish are fatty prey, and feeding them too often can result in an obese newt with various health problems. Two popular fish choices are Guppies (Poecilia reticulata) and Rosy Red (Fathead) Minnows (Pimephales promelas).

Young newts (larvae and efts) may be fed daily to every second day. Adult newts can be fed every three to five days. Feeding daily may upset the newt's stomach and cause bloat, so allow at least a day between each feeding.

VI. Housing

.
A secure lid is required for the enclosure; their humid skin allows them to climb walls. A cool, quiet tank with many plants for security and spots to sit outside of the water. These newts should actively explore their environment. Size and build: At least a 38 L (10 gallon) aquarium is needed for a single newt or pair of newts. The enclosure must be covered with a secure lid so that the newts cannot climb out. The lid should not have any gaps or cracks (they can squeeze through pretty small holes), and should either be too heavy to lift or very tight-fitting. Because these animals need an aquatic environment, a glass aquarium is the most reasonable type of enclosure you can provide. Cage furniture: Water depth is key- these newts need at least 10 cm (4") of water, but they will certainly use the entire depth if more is provided. You can offer them a means to get out of the water, like a floating piece of bark, a rock breaking the surface or a floating mat of plants, so that they may exit the water to rest when they please. A variety of cage furnishings like wood, rocks and live plants gives the newts more to explore and more places to hide. Allow a wide, central area for swimming and feeding. A well-furnished aquarium is certainly better for their health. Live plants help keep the water clean, maintain a healthy microbe fauna, and prevent algae buildup. A variety of aquarium plants do well in this type of enclosure, such as Elodea sp. (also called Anacharis sp.), Java Fern (Microsorum pteropus) and Java Moss (Versicularia sp.). Golden Pothos (also called Devil's Ivy), Epipremnum aureum (previously called Scindapsus aureus) is not a true aquatic plant, but does very well in an aquarium if there are leaves breaching the surface of the water. See Plants for the Aquarium for more information. Substrate: Many owners leave the bottom of their newt aquarium bare, since this is easy to clean and is no detriment to the animals. A thin layer of playground sand can also be used.

VII. Water Quality

Clean water is essential for aquatic amphibians, but remember that clear water is not necessarily clean water. Several parameters need to be considered:

Parameter	Description	Target Value
Chlorine and chloramine	These products are added to many municipal water supplies to sanitize our drinking water. These chemicals are toxic to amphibians. Chlorine will evaporate if left in an open container for a week, but chloramine requires an aquarium treatment to remove.	0
pH	A measure of acidity/alkalinity. This usually does not need to be adjusted, as tap water is typically about neutral (7.0).	6.0-8.0
Carbonate hardness	Carbonate hardness is a measure of dissolved carbonate and bicarbonate in the water. Extremes in water hardness can affect pH. It is measured in degress of carbonate hardness (dKH)	5-8 dKH (slightly soft to slightly hard)
General hardness	This is a measure of total dissolved minerals, most kits test dissolved calcium and magnesium. Most tap water is either slightly hard or slightly soft, but depending on your water source this can differ greatly. It is measured in degrees of general hardness (dH or dGH).	4-12 dGH (soft to moderately hard)
Ammonia	This is a waste products from plants and animals in the aquarium, it is very toxic. This is an essential test kit to buy for any aquarium.	Low, undetectable
Nitrite	Ammonia is converted to nitrite by aquarium bacteria. It is less toxic than ammonia. It is also a good idea to have a nitrite test kit on-hand.	Low, undetectable
Nitrate	Nitrite is further converted to nitrate by aquarium bacteria. It does not harm aquarium inhabitants, but it promotes algae growth.	Low to moderate
Oxygen	Well-oxygenated water is important. Many aquatic amphibians breathe through their skin to some extent, oxygen encourages growth of good bacteria and discourages growth of some bad bacteria and fungi. Adding an airstone to the water can help with oxygenation if you do not use a filter.	N/A
Temperature	Water temperature is critical for amphibians. Overheating can quickly kill these animals. Never allow the water temperature to exceed 22 °C (72 °F)	15-20 °C (60-68 °F)

Test kits are available for most of the parameters listed above. Any newt owner should at least own kits for: Ammonia, nitrite and pH. Every aquarium needs a thermometer.

Maintaining a healthy aquarium is not difficult:

Do not overcrowd the aquarium: More animals produce more waste, which dirties the water faster.
Do not overfeed the newts: Feed only as much as they can eat in 10-15 minutes, then remove the rest. A turkey baster is an excellent tool for removing uneaten food, and feces.
Perform regular water changes: Change no more than 1/3 of the aquarium water every two weeks. This helps reduce the levels of invisible ammonia, nitrites and nitrates.
Maintain the filter accordingly, if a filter is used.
Cycle the aquarium before adding the newts, if possible. (See Aquarium Cycling.)
Check water parameters as needed.
Never completely clean the entire aquarium at once. This can deterimentally reduce the good bacteria in the aquarium. If aquarium ornaments and furniture must be cleaned, do it a few pieces at a time.
Add live plants when possible: Plants not only add hiding places and make the aquarium look nice, but they help keep the water clean and provide homes for good bacteria.

A filter can be used to help concentrate waste matter from the water so that it may be removed more easily, and provide some chemical filtration by adding activated carbon. The filter should not create so much heat that it raises the aquarium temperature, and should not create a significant current. A box filter or external canister filter are both suitable choices for these newts. If no filter is used, an airstone can be added to ensure the water is well oxygenated.

See Water Quality for more information on water parameters and keeping the aquarium healthy.

VIII. Heating

Considering these are cool water animals, extra heating is not required. Keep the aquarium in a cool room and away from direct sunlight. Ensure that any lighting and filtration equipment does not produce excess heat. Always use a thermometer to monitor water temperature.

IX. Lighting

These newts do not require any special lighting. Provide a photoperiod of 12-14 hours, varying with the seasons. A proper day/night cycle can be achieved by using an electrical timer.

If you have plants in the aquarium, light is more important. Filtered sunlight from a nearby window can provide daylight. Never place an aquarium in the direct rays of the sun to avoid overheating. A standard fluorescent bulb can be used over the aquarium, but check the temperature to ensure that the fixture's ballast does not warm up the aquarium too much.

X. Sexing

Male and female newts can be distinguished by the shape of their tail. Males have a taller, more paddle-shaped tail than females, whose tail is longer with a more pointed tip. Males also have a very swollen cloacal region during breeding season (late winter to early spring).

XII. Health

Proper husbandry is the key to good health in all amphibians. If you provide good basic care, then you will avoid the vast majority of potential health problems that amphibians can encounter in captivity.

Because these newts are virtually all wild caught, they are undoubtedbly parasitized. The process of being captured is very stressful, and this stress can affect the immune system and allow any normally harmless parasites to become disease-causing. A fecal exam should be performed by an experienced amphibian vet to determine if antiparasitic medications are needed to prevent any parasite-related health problems.

Newly acquired newts may spend all of their time out of the water, or refuse to eat. This is not completely unusual, as changing environments is stressful. Newts that refuse to enter the water may still be in the terrestrial eft stage, or the water quality or temperature is not suitable. If the environment is appropriate and the newt is healthy, it should eventually enter the water and begin eating. If the newt refuses to eat, try different food items, and fresh, living food items. If the newt does not eat for more than 7-10 days, or has a very poor body condition (ribs and hips are easily visible through the skin), then seek the advice of an experienced veterinarian.

When in doubt about a health issue with your pet, do not hesitate to contact a knowledgeable reptile and amphibian veterinarian. To find a vet in your area, see the directory at the Association of Reptile and Amphibian Veterinarians website.

Glossary:

Aposematic colouration: A type of colouration or pattern on an organism that uses bright colours to warn potential predators that the animal is toxic. Aquatic: Describes an organism that live primarily in water. Nocturnal: Describes an animal that is naturally active during night hours. Photoperiod: The period of daylight hours during a 24-hour period. Semi-aquatic: Describes an organism that spends significant amounts of time both on land an in water. STL: "Snout to tail length," the length of the animal from the tip of its snout to the tip of its tail. Terrestrial: Describes an animal that predominantly lives on land, or lives and dwells on the ground.

Sources:

Mattison, C. 1993. Keeping and Breeding Amphibians. London: Blandford.
Nelson, N. 2003. Caudata.org. "Caudata Culture Species Entry: Cynops orientalis." (http://www.caudata.org/cc/species/Cynops/C_orientalis.shtml)

Further Reading: