Even if your lizard isn't suitable for regular handling, you may have to hold your lizard at some point or another. The following are some techniques for handling lizards.

A very important fact to remember is that reptiles can feel pain and discomfort. They feel it when you touch them, and handling any reptile too roughly or too firmly can hurt them. NEVER pick up or restrain a lizard by its tail- This is extremely uncomfortable, and in most species the tail may autotomize (break off).

You can tell if the lizard you are handling is uncomfortable or is in pain if it struggles when held, rolls, scratches, hisses, gapes, tries to bite, or tightens its grip (digs its claws into your clothes or skin). Because all captive lizards are wild animals, even if the animal is not in pain, it may react this way to human contact (for example, if the lizard thinks you are a predator). However, a normally calm lizard may act this way if it is being hurt, or is uncomfortable for any reason, be it the way you are holding it, or an unfamiliar sight, smell or sound that frightens or stresses the animal. To be certain that the reason for your lizard's struggle to get away is not because it is in pain, you must know how to properly hold the lizard, with the correct amount or pressure or firmness. You should also avoid exposing your lizard to loud and sudden noises, quick and jerky movements, or anything else that might suddenly frighten it.

Another important note: You must pay particular attention to how much pressure you put on a small lizard's chest cavity so that you do not restrict its breathing, and suffocate it. Unlike mammals, reptiles lack the diaphragm- a large muscle separating our abdominal and thoracic cavities that is our main power for breathing.

Personally, I do not recommended using gloves to handle any lizard, expect perhaps large monitors, tegus and iguanas. Gloves for small lizards are completely unecessary, and you cannot accurately feel how much pressure you are putting on the animal. Even with larger lizards such as iguanas, tegus and some monitors, gloves greatly reduce your hand dexterity, and can lead to the same problem. Also, approaching a lizard with large gloves on may be intimidating to the animal.

Above and below: Small, fragile lizards, such as this Haitian curly-tail (Leiocephalus schreibersi), can be restrained with a "pincer" hold.     Calm, smaller lizards like this leopard gecko can usually be handled with little restraint needed.

Small Lizards Most small lizards species are easily stressed if handled regularly. These lizards are naturally both predators and prey in the wild, so to them, anything bigger is something that might eat them. Do not approach the lizard from above, this is typically seen as a predator's attack. Instead, approach the animal from the side. Restraining these lizards is not necessarily difficult (it's probably harder to catch them than to hold them!), but it still must be done properly. Grasp the lizard with your thumb on its chest, and your index finger (and middle finger if needed) wrapped around its side and back. Hold firmly, but not so hard that you restrict the lizard's breathing. Held like this, you can easily examine the lizard, as shown in the photos at left. In the case of small lizards that are calm when held, such as most leopard geckos (Eublepharis macularius), restraint is often unecessary for simply handling or examining the lizard. Holding the lizard in both hands, palms open but slightly cupped, is usually enough. When restraint is needed, apply the pincer technique similar to other small lizards. Large Lizards Medium to large-sized lizards, like iguanas, monitors and tegus, may be more difficult to handle, particularly because their claws, tails and teeth can do more damage if agitated or if not properly restrained. If the lizard is calm and comfortable being held, minimal restraint is required. So that the lizard feels secure, all of its

body must be supported. A common technique is to support the lizard's chest and belly on your forearm (so that the lizard's head is towards your palm), and keep the tail tucked between your arm and side to keep it out of the way and safe. This method supports the entire animal (except the tail, which is guarded by your arm). If the lizard is a little more agitated and you want a firmer grip, keep the lizard in this hold but wrap your fingers around its pelvis and chest (thoracic) regions a little tighter. If the lizard is aggrevated but must be kept still, such as for nail trimming or administering medication, wrapping the lizard firmly in a towel can be quite effective. Single limbs can be extracted from the towel for examination, and the head can also be accesible. To help calm the lizard down, you may cover its eyes with towel or your hand, but NEVER wrap the lizard's head in the towel. You do not want to hurt, or worse, suffocate the lizard. Of course, a stronger, thicker towel is necessary for stronger, larger lizards that are finnicky. With even larger, potentially more dangerous lizards, such as large monitors, handling is not recommended

Medium to large lizards, like this green iguana, should have their entire body weight supported so that the lizard feels safe. Note how the iguana's forearms are being supported by the person's free hand, and the long tail is tucked gently between the arm and the body. (This iguana has a spinal deformity.)

unless you have experience with large lizards (that, consequently, have large teeth and claws!). If the lizard is aggrevated, covering the its eyes may help. Restraining the neck may help control the head, however you must still be careful to not put too much pressure on the neck, particularly the throat. If the entire lizard must be held down, using your entire arms, and chest to put weight on the animal's side, may help hold the lizard down. Depending on the size of the animal, an additional person may be needed to control the tail, and neither of the two people already occupied with restraining the animal should be expected to be able to examine the lizard.

What To Do If You Get Bitten

What first should be understood, is that if you have been bitten, it is more than likely your own fault. Most lizards will give plenty of warning before biting (by hissing, gaping, lunging, tail whipping, etc.), or you may have been causing pain, provoking an attack.

Defensive bites will usually occur if the lizard feels threatened, and if you have ignored all of their previous attempts to frighten you off. These are typically quick strikes, the lizard will not hold on. These bites can be avoided by understanding your lizard's body language (biting and fighting really is their last resort, with the exception of very aggressive species or individuals), and by not disturbing the lizard at certain key times: During feeding, shedding, or while the animal is sleeping (how would you feel if some giant plucked you up out of your comfortable napping spot?). However, if you smell like the lizard's prey (take into consideration what your lizard eats! Rodents? Birds? Other reptiles?), or if you have made movements resembling prey (for example, wiggling your fingers), the lizard may bite and hold on- It thinks you're food!

It the lizard's jaws are latched onto you and it will not let go, do NOT hit the lizard. This will only be perceived as an attack, and will provoke more aggression or fear-aggression. Also, do not try to pull away, this will only tear your flesh and risk damage to the lizard's mouth. To get a lizard to let go, you can dab a cloth with a bit of rubbing alcohol, and waft it near the animal's nostrils (no closer than a few centimetres). Do NOT get any alcohol into its nostrils or mouth! The strong odour should prompt the lizard into releasing its grip. Similarly, you could drop a tiny amount of vinegar or consumable alcohol (NOT rubbing alcohol) into the lizard's mouth. If neither of these options are available or practical to you while you're being bitten, tipping the lizard upside down (while still supporting its body!) may disorient the animal and make it let go. The lizard may let go on its own, if it realizes that it made a mistake, and that you are not actually prey.

Once the lizard lets go, either place it back into its cage if it is very stressed. If it is particularly aggressive and you are certain the animal is not very stressed, putting the lizard back into its enclosure may teach it that biting means you will leave it alone! After any bite, be certain to properly clean the wound with an antiseptic, and remove any embedded teeth your pet may have left behind. The only bites you should really be worried about are those from large lizards, that may require stitches. Bites from smaller animals typically do not require a doctor's attention, and are usually not very painful.

Last modified: Saturday, July 31, 2004

Sources:

• Bartlett, R.D. and Bartlett, P. 1997. Lizard Care from A to Z. New York: Barron's Educational Series, Inc.
• Jenkins, J.R. 1996. "Diagnostic and Clinical Techniques." In: Mader, D.R. (ed.), Reptile Medicine and Surgery. Philadelphia: WB Saunders Company.
• Kaplan, M. 1997. "Handling Reptiles." Anapsid.org. (http://www.anapsid.org/handlingreptiles.html)