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Your First Herp

"Herps," or "herptiles," are slang words used by herpetoculturists (people who keep and/or breed herps as a hobby) to describe reptiles and amphibians. Although the hobby of herpetoculture is gaining popularity, reptiles and amphibians are not suitable pets for everyone, and many species should be left completely to very advanced hobbyists and zoos. All require constant maintenance and attention to detail, if the species is even tameable it might need frequent interaction to remain tame, and trying to tame species that are not meant to be held can seriously stress out and even kill the animal. Reptiles and amphibians are considered exotic pets: They have very specific needs that absolutely must be provided. But if you are willing to care for it properly and dedicate time to learning about these animal's needs, there probably is a herp that is a good choice for you.
 


Why Keep Herps?

So why exactly would anyone want a reptile or amphibian as a pet? They are not affectionate like dogs and cats can be, and you cannot walk them for exercise or snuggle up to them in bed. But they do have a certain appeal to them, and there are species that will happily live in captivity if they are cared for properly.
Good Reasons To Keep Herps as Pets:
-To have a "hands-off" pet to observe for its beauty.
-To have a hypoallergenic companion animal.
-To have a pet that you can provide for better because of your lifestyle (ex: limited space in an apartment).		 Stupid Reasons To Keep Herps as Pets:
-To show off your herp to your friends.
-To have a "cool" animal.
-To feed it live mice.
-Because it's easier than a dog or cat (false!).


The Basics of Herp-Keeping

No one should expect to be able to walk into a pet store, buy a reptile or amphibian, take it home and be able to keep it healthy. Keeping herps is nothing like taking care of a dog or cat. There are many new concepts that must be understood so that you can care for it properly. Reptiles and amphibians cannot be treated like small mammals or even fish!
  • Reptiles and amphibians are ectothermic ("cold-blooded" is an inaccurate term), which means that their body temperature relies on the environment they are kept in. Every species has a small range of temperatures where its body functions properly at, called the preferred optimum temperature zone, or POTZ. You must provide a range of temperatures, called a thermal gradient, in every herp's enclosure, so that they can properly thermoregulate, or maintain their body within that preferred range. Read more about ectotherm heat requirements, here.
  • In addition to heating, many herps also need special lighting that partially replaces natural sunlight. Ultraviolet-B radiation (UV-B) is needed so that many species can produce vitamin D3, which is needed to use calcium from the diet. Most herps, except snakes, that are active during the day need UV-B lighting, although it seems snakes do not require it to stay healthy. If you do not provide UV-B to your herp that needs it, slow, debilitating diseases may develop, the most common are metabolic bone diseases. Read more about why UV-B lighting is important, here.
  • All reptiles and amphibians may carry Salmonella as normal bacteria in their digestive tract. Salmonella does not normally cause disease in herps, and not all strains will cause disease in people. However, it is naturally shed in their feces, so proper hygiene must always be followed when handling herps and items from their enclosures. Read more about Salmonella, here.
  • Stress can kill a herp. These animals depend largely on their environments, and an enclosure that is too small, does not provide means to engage in natural behaviours, does not provide a proper heat gradient, is not at the proper level of humidity, does not have suitable lighting, has cagemates that are competing for resources, or is in a noisy area of the house... Can mean certain death for your pet.


    Costs of Care

    First, you need to decide what type of reptile or amphibian you can afford. Because they have such specific needs, herps are expensive pets. You might be surprised to find out that the small Green Anole, Anolis carolinensis, which usually costs from five to fifteen dollars, can cost over 300$ to set up properly, not including buying prey weekly and any vet bills. Here is a quick sum of what one Green Anole will initially need (*Please note that these prices are in Canadian dollars):
 
  • 15-20 gallon aquarium: anywhere from 5-70$, depends on if you can find a used one at a garage sale, or if you buy a new one.
  • Tank lid (if not included, can be made rather cheaply. Should not be an aquarium hood made for fish!): 5-30$
  • Light fixture for heat lamp: 6-20$
  • Light fixture for fluorescent bulb: 10-20$
  • Incandescent bulbs: 2-7$ OR Ceramic heat emitter: 30-50$
  • Full-spectrum UVA/UVB fluorescent bulb (Zoo Med, Exo Terra's Repti-Glo, or VitaLite are suggested): 20-45$
  • Cage substrate (soil, paper towels, indoor/outdoor carpet, etc.): 5-20$
  • Cage furnishings (branches, water dish, food dish, live or fake plants, etc.): 5-30$
  • Water bottle for misting: 1-3$
  • Container to hold prey (this can be as simple as an old ice cream container, or a plastic "Critter Keeper"): 0-7$
  • Powdered calcium and powdered vitamins: 15-35$
  • Anole: 5-15$

    Total starting price: Approx. 102-345$.
Of course, this is a rough estimate. Prices may vary from location to location. But, one thing remains constant: Reptiles and amphibians are expensive to keep. Before it crosses your mind, you cannot buy things little by little after you buy the animal. Herps need everything immediately in captivity. Neglecting to provide any of the animal's needs is cruel, and you will most probably end up with a sick or dead pet.
You will also have to decide on a species that you have the time to care for, and that you can actually enjoy as a pet. For example, if you work at night and sleep during the day, choosing a species that is active during the day (diurnal) is not a good choice, since the animal sleeps at night and needs to be fed during the day. If you have a heavy work or school schedule, you would not want a species that needs a lot of maintenance, like a Green Iguana (Iguana iguana, which is absolutely not a beginner's lizard, anyways). Whether the animal is for display or is to be handled should be considered, as well, since many herps are not suitable as "out of the cage " pets.

Popular Pet Store Herps: Choosing the Right Species For You

Herps That Do Not Make Good Pets

Burmese Python(Python molurus bivittatus), Reticulated Python (Python Reticulatus) and other large constrictors

Although some individuals can be puppy-tame, these animals are too large to be kept by anyone but more advanced keepers and zoos. They are also potentially dangerous, and while all deaths cause by large snakes are related to serious errors by their owners, it is still a threat. These animals need a huge enclosure that needs to be heated, large prey (think large rats, rabbits and even chickens) and poop a lot, so they are not ideal candidates to be companion animals. Reticulated pythons are particularly unpredictable.

Chameleons (Chameleonidae)

Chameleons are delicate, easily stressed animals. Most species make very poor captives and do not survive long outside of the wild. They need extremely specific conditions, become stressed very easily and do not have very long lifespans. A few species are frequently captive bred and make decent pets for more advanced keepers: The Veiled Chameleon (Chamaeleo calypratus), the Jackson's Chameleon (Chamaeleo jacksonii) and the Panther Chameleon (Furcifer pardalis). They make a very poor choice for beginners and are difficult even for more experienced keepers, despite their popularity in pet stores.

Giant Green Iguana (Iguana iguana)

Green Iguanas can reach a length of 2 m (6 ft), weigh up to 9 kg (20 lbs), and can be totally unpredictable animals. They are amazing creatures, but they need huge enclosures and have very particular dietary needs (a high calcium, low phosphorus diet, low in calcium antagonists). Males can become extremely aggressive after maturity and particularly during breeding season, and their razor sharp teeth and whip-like tails are not something to contend against. Females will produce infertile eggs every year even without a male present, and often develop egg-related problems if not spayed. They may live fifteen to twenty years. Overall, these animals are difficult and expensive to manage, and should not be kept as pets.

Monitor Lizards (Varanus sp.)

Most monitors grow very large and are voracious and aggressive. Their fast metabolisms need large amounts of prey to keep going, so they are absolutely expensive to feed and house. These predators are dangerous, and the majority of species you may see in pet stores are unsuitable as pets.

Venemous Herps

Venemous herps, often called "hots," are not common in pet stores, but you might see the occasional animal at an expo. Keeping hots puts you and the people you live with in danger. They should be left to zoos, only. To put things in perspective, Dr. Douglas Mader DVM (a world-renowned reptile vet) said at a conference lecture (The North American Veterinary Conference, 2006) that he will not see any venemous herps unless the owner brings enough vials of antivenom to treat him if he were to get bitten. Vials can be as expensive as 1500 USD each, and as many as a dozen may be needed for a grown man.


Herps That Are Not Suitable For Beginners:

Anoles (Anolis sp.)

The two most often seen species are Brown Anoles (A. sagrei) and Green Anoles (A. carolinenis). These little lizards are charming and interesting pets to watch, but because they are so common in pet stores their needs are often neglected. They need heat and UVB lighting, a large enough space to feel comfortable, and an insectivorous diet. They are not tameable, and because almost all anoles are wild caught they would benefit from a more experienced owner that can deal with a stressed reptile.

Asian Water Dragon (Physignathus cocincinus)

This wonderful species needs a spacious, arboreal enclosure that includes a large water area (that must be kept very clean). UV lighting is required. Some individuals are very flighty, but many can become quite tame with effort. They grow quite large, males can reach a total length of a metre (3 ft). Because of their enclosure needs and the fact that they are prone to environmentally-induced trauma (cage scratching, rubbing their nose against enclosure walls) they are not recommended for beginners.

Pac-Man or Horned Frog (Ceratophrys ornata and C. cranwelli)

These "walking mouths" have voracious appetites, and your fingers probably look like a good meal to them. They live in moist, tropical habitats, and can grow quite large, to 15 cm (6") in length. They are sit-and-wait predators that will eat anything that fits into their mouth, so they are prone to obesity because of overzealous feeding by the owner. They make nice pets to watch, but some frog-keeping experience is suggested.

Red-eared Sliders (Trachemys scripta)

Red-eared Sliders are the small green turtles that are most often seen in pet stores. What you probably do not know is that they can reach the size of a dinner plate, need a massive vivarium with a large water area and a place to sit outside of the water, are omnivorous when young but mostly vegetarian as they get older, need UV lighting and a basking spot, are very messy eaters and poopers (a good filter alone will cost over a hundred dollars), and should live up to 40 years. Keeping them any way but properly is cruel.


Herps That Are Suitable For Beginners:

Ball Python (Python regius )

The Ball Python is a heavy-bodied snake that reaches 1.3 m (4 ft), and almost always has a very nice temperament. An adult will do fine in a 114 L (30 gallon) long enclosure. They need to be heated but no UV light is required, and they will thrive on a diet of healthy, pre-killed rodents. Captive-bred snakes are highly recommended over wild caught ones, as wild caught individuals rarely adapt to captivity and typically die of starvation as they will refuse to feed. There are many colour and pattern morphs available, but these are out of the price range of most beginners!

Bearded Dragon (Pogona vitticeps)

"Beardies" are active, charismatic and curious lizards that make a great choice for a first herp, and even more experienced keepers still love their beardies. They are hardy animals that do need a rather large enclosure, as they can reach a length of 51 cm (20"), but make a much better choice than a green iguana for the beginner that wants a bigger lizard. They are omnivorous, eating both plant and animal matter, and are comparably low-maintenance reptiles. The biggest hurdles with beardies is their size, and that their enclosure needs a very hot basking spot, 42C (108F). There are many colour variations available.

Corn Snake (Elaphe guttata [Pantherophis guttatus])

Corns are the ultimate beginner's snake. They do not get too large, are generally quite tame, will thrive on a diet of pre-killed mice, are very hardy, and are not too expensive and are readily available in plenty of different colour and pattern morphs.

Crested Gecko (Rhacodactylus ciliatus)

"Cresties" are fast becoming the favourite arboreal lizard for beginners because of its ease of care. They do not need very large enclosures, no UV lighting is required, and they are somewhat handleable. They eat both insects and fruit nectar, and this is the only species that can be kept healthy on a commercial pellet diet that was developed exclusively for this species. There are many colour and pattern variations available.

Leopard Gecko (Eublepharis macularius)

The Leopard Gecko is well-known as the best beginner's lizard, and lives up to 20 years. They do not grow very large, do not need UV lighting, are veyr hardy and typically very tame, and are interesting animals to watch. They are relatively inexpensive to purchase the animal and its enclosure, and many colour and pattern morphs are available (many of which are affordable).

White's Tree Frog (Litoria caerulea)

These pudgy, "smiling" frogs are fun to watch but are hands-off pets like other amphibians. They are relatively easy to keep and can live up to twenty years. They are arboreal so they need a tall rather than long enclosure, with plenty of branches and hiding spots. Unlike many amphibians, they do bask, and need an overhead heat source.

 

It's easy to see that most of the herps you will see in pet stores make very poor pets! If you've decided on a herp that you would like to have as a pet, and it suits your lifestyle, it's time to do some research.

 

Researching The Animal's Needs and Making A Home

Whenever you want to buy an animal, you must always research as much as you can on its captive requirements, natural behavior and natural habitats. Good places to find this information are field guides, captive care books and magazines (publications older than the mid-90s should be avoided, most will contain outdated information [note that some recent publications also contain outdated information]), the Internet, and herpetological papers. Read everything you can, the more you know, the better life you can provide your herp.

The animal's enclosure should be completed and established well before you actually buy the animal. You must be absolutely certain that the temperature gradient and humidity levels in the enclosure are suitable for the species you are going to keep. You should leave the enclosure sit for at least a week with all heating, lighting and humidity devices (if any are neccessary) on, so that you can monitor the temperatures and humidity before you expose the animal to them.

When designing the enclosure, a naturalistic habitat is usually very successful if properly maintained. Some species, however, such as the large pythons and giant lizards, are easier to maintain in a much more simple enclosure. If you decide to go with simplicity, you must still respect the animal's habits. One example is the giant green iguana, Iguana iguana. This lizard gets big: 1.5-2 m (4-7 ft), and most people prefer to give them a simple enclosure. But, this lizard spends a lot of time high in the forest canopies in the wild, and enjoys climbing. So, you must provide the iguana with high shelves to bask on and many branches and shelves to climb, as well as vertical climbing surfaces.

Choosing the Animal

In most pet shops you'll be confronted with aquariums filled with legions of lizards, frogs, turtles, and snakes. A private breeder (with a good reputation) usually takes better care and monitors their animals more carefully, and is recommended. If you choose to buy from a pet shop, here are some guidelines to choosing a healthier animal:

  • Is its skin clear of abrasions such as scratches and bites, burns and discoloration? Most of these are probably harboring infections which can lead to several health problems. In amphibians, an unnatural reddish colour may be a bacterial infection called red-leg disease. Burns can heal, but the skin tends to stay sensitive.
  • Are there feces stuck to its belly, or dried around its vent? Could be an overall filthy enclosure, leading to poor health, the animal may be sick and weak.
  • Do the limbs and/or tail have any irregular bumps other than at the joints, are there hard, swollen knots in the thighs? In the case of a snake, are there any knots in the backbone? On a chelonian, is the shell firm? Could be broken bones or a severe calcium deficiency, or a cyst or abscess.
  • On a snake, is the body round and firm, you cannot see the spine through the skin? On a lizard, can you see the hip bones and leg bones through the skin, are the many wrinkles on it's sides? On a chelonian, are there deep pits on the sides of the neck and where the legs enter the shell? On an amphibian are there deep pits on it's sides? This could be a starving, dehydrated, or internally bacterial infected herp.
  • Are the eyes cloudy, inflamed, or crusted? In chelonians are they swollen? Possibly a respiratory or eye infection, or mite infestation. In chelonians it could be a respiratory infection, hypothermia, or, rarely, a vitamin A deficiency.
  • Is it gaping to breathe? Do you hear a wheezing or clicking sound when it breathes? The enclosure may be too hot, and if it is not an open-mouth threat then it could be a respiratory infection. An odd sound while breathing represents a respiratory infection.
  • Is there dried or wet mucous around the nostrils? Possible respiratory infection. A salty deposit is normal for most species.
  • Is the inside of its mouth pale or grayish, sheathing mucous, or has small yellowish, whitish, or greenish patches? On lizards you can gently pull on the dewlap to see inside the mouth. This is probably mouth rot, or stomatitis, a systemic infection.
  • If you move its limbs, does it resist? If it's weak, shaky, or does not resist at all, it is a seriously ill herp.
  • Do you see any tiny black, dark red-brown, or bright orange dots moving around on it's body? Check especially around the ears, armpits, along dorsal crests, and under large belly scales of snakes. This is a mite infestation, could be from a wild-caught herp or poor overall care.
  • Does it try to avoid being caught? While some species are more docile than others, you'll rarely encounter a naturally tame specimen. A healthy herp will be alert to its surrounding, and may defecate or try to bite when held. The herp may also be kept too cold for its requirements if it doesn't try to escape your grasp.

    Cagemates

Even if you are tempted to purchase more than one animal, it is important to know that reptiles and amphibians are solitary animals. They do not enjoy the company of another animal in their enclosure. There are several factors to take into account when you are mixing animals:
  • Sex: Males cannot be housed together; they will fight. Keeping males with females is not a good idea unless you are prepared to care for any and all young (breeding reptiles is not a quick money-making scheme! Even breeders do not have a large payoff when they sell an animal, because housing and feeding the animal until it's sold is usually more expensive). If more than one animal are kept in the same enclosure, it is safest to house females together. If you not want to breed your animals, or you do not want to provide a male with several females, do not purchase a pair. Many species will breed in captivity without any stimulation aside from being housed with the opposite sex. Reproduction is very costly on the female's body, and uses up a lot of her calcium and energy stores. Many species are "harem" breeders and the males can be quite aggressive with females. A single female would be the target of a male's mating advances meant for several females, this can stress her out. It is quite common for single females housed with a male to become sick and even die because of breeding complications. To avoid expensive vet bills, or worse, to avoid replacing a dead animal, do not house males and females together if you do not want to breed your animals.
  • Size of the animal: All reptiles and amphibians are cannibalistic if one animal is larger than the other, and especially if they're desperate for food.
  • Temperament: One animal tends to dominate the other(s), resulting in stress and illness. Aggressive individuals are even more dangerous.
  • Enclosure: If the enclosure is not large enough, or if there are not enough basking, hiding and feeding areas, then the animals will become stressed from having to compete for these vital needs.
  • Individual species needs: Mixing species is an overall bad idea, and should be left to the very experienced keepers. There are too many compatability problems, regarding habitat, size and temperament. See Mixing Species for more information.

If you want to have a happy, healthy pet herp, then leave it alone in its enclosure. The only thing it is missing by having a cagemate is stress!

Bringing Your New Herp Home
The pet shop will probably give you the herp in a cardboard box or deli cup, depending on its size. If it's cold, or very hot, outside, do not attempt to walk home with the herp. If its cold outside, bring along a styrofoam cooler, or if the container is small you may put it inside your jacket while in the car and until you get home. Public transport is loud and stressful for a herp. Also, do not leave the herp in the car unsupervised for an extended period of time, cars can get very hot very fast if left in sunlight, and reptiles and amphibians can die from hyperthermia (overheating) as well as hypothermia.
When You Get Home

When you put your new pet in its enclosure, do not disturb it for a while, it will probably be nervous. Try to keep your herp on a regular schedule, turn on/off the lights at the same time every day, and if you mist the enclosure, do it at the same time every day. After a few days, offer it some food. If this species is tameable, do not try to remove it from the enclosure for about a week, preferably two weeks. Let it get used to its surroundings and daily routine, first. Note that amphibians (with the exception of rough-skinned toads) should not be handled unless absolutely necessary, the oils on our hands can harm their delicate skin, and all secrete some degree of toxin. Handling can be stressful, reptiles and amphibians are easily stressed, and stress can kill them.

Your Herp's First Visit to the Vet

It is commonly advised to bring your herp to a knowledgable reptile and amphibian veterinarian to have it checked for internal parasites and anything else you would not have been able to detect with a superficial examination. To find a qualified herp vet near you, please see the website of the Association of Reptilian and Amphibian Veterinarians (ARAV).

When the herp defecates, bring it with you in a sealed container, labeled with your name, your pet's name, species, your phone number, and the date the sample was collected. This is to be tested for parasites in the herp's digestive tract. Ideally, for any new herp this fecal exam should be done once a month for a few months to determine the normal load of parasites in that individual. Treating parasites is not always needed because many will not cause disease in a herp unless there are too many, or unless the herp is sick from another problem, first. Once the "baseline" parasite load is known, when you bring your herp in yearly for a checkup, the amount of parasites found in the fecal exam can be compared to what was found to be normal.
 

Good luck and happy herping!

Last modified: Monday, March 6, 2006


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