A herp is only easy to care for if you know how to care for it properly and fulfill its needs, which can be very different depending on what species you are keeping. Some species need to be fed every day, and some enjoy regular baths, too.

An advantage to keeping herps is that they don't have to be walked, and they do not have fur or hair so it is unlikely that you will develop allergies. But they must be taken care of, not shoved in a cage and ignored until you feel like feeding or cleaning them.

Snakes are indeed vertebrates, owning a skull, a spine (with some species having over 300 vertebrae, compared to humans who only have 33-34), among other bones in their body. Some of the larger snakes have remnants of hind legs, called spurs.

While some anuran's skin secretions may irritate the skin, certain viruses cause warts, not frogs and toads. Anurans can carry these viruses, however you are just as likely to be infected by anything else carrying a wart-causing virus.

Reptiles are not slimy. The ability to be completely terrestrial animals is because of their tough, dry skin which keeps in moisture, preventing dehydration without living in very wet or completely aquatic habitats (but this doesn't mean that they do not need a water source. Reptiles, with the exception of a few desert species, still need to drink water). This is much unlike amphibians, whose skin usually is slimy (except many toad species), requiring frequent trips to a damp place or a pool of water to keep it moist.

Of about 2700 species of snake living on every continent save Antarctica, only a fraction of that number are venomous species. The danger of a venomous snake depends on the species. Many rear-fanged snakes, such as vine snakes, do not pose as much of a threat to humans than, say, a diamondback rattlesnake, because most vine snake's venom does not have very much of an effect on a creature as large as a person. You must also take into consideration which toxins are found in the particular species' venom. Neurotoxins attack the nervous system, and being bitten with a snake such as a king cobra could result in loss of consciousness, difficulty breathing, numbness in facial areas, vomiting, kidney damage, paralysis, optic shock and convulsions. A bite from a snake with hemotoxins in it's venom, such as some rattlesnakes, can result in intense pain and swelling around the bite, anticoagulation of blood (not allowing the blood to clot to form a scab), discolouration and bruising, gangrene and tissue necrosis.

It has been proven that the potency of a hatchling venomous snake's venom is equal to that of an adult's, and in fact they could be more dangerous than adults. Adults will try to conserve venom for prey, and when they give defensive bites they are often "dry" and do not deliver venom (this varies between species and individuals, of course), or they deliver limited amounts of venom. Juvenile snakes, however, do not seem to have the ability to as finely control the amount of venom they deliver.

Reptiles grow throughout their lives, they don't stop. Juveniles grow faster than adults, and adults grow very little in a long period of time, it's not as noticeable. Even if a reptile that is destined to be 2 metres (6 feet) long is kept in a 20 gallon aquarium, it will still keep growing, although it would not be very healthy. Picture this: Place a full grown man in a closet with a heat pad underneath him for when it gets cold, and food is shoved in from a little slot above his head every few days or so. He fits, he has food and warmth, but will he be healthy? No.

Most zoos already have more than enough giant snakes, lizards, and crocodilians, they probably don't need anymore, or just don't have any room. If you think that they will take in smaller species, they probably won't. Your best bet is to find out how big the reptile you want gets, and if you don't want to make the commitment of owning a 4 metre (12 foot) Burmese python, don't buy one in the first place.

While all reptiles and amphibians have a high chance of carrying Salmonella bacteria, it's not a certainty. Your herps can be tested for salmonella, although these tests are not always accurate since false negatives are common. The easiest way to prevent a Salmonella infection is to always practice excellent hygiene around your herps: Wash your hands with antibacterial soap before and after handling each herp, and routinely disinfect their enclosures.

Poultry also has a very high risk of carrying Salmonella, and dogs and cats can also be carriers, so reptiles and amphibians should not be singled out.

Reptiles and amphibians are solitary animals, they do not "enjoy" the company of a cagemate. Some species may tolerate the presence of another conspecific in their enclosure, but often one will dominate other the other, not allowing it to feed, bask, drink, causing much stress in the weaker animal. Males (and some females) are also territorial, resulting in frequent fighting.

An enclosure with more than one animal can be obtained; the enclosure must be very large (depending on what species) and have many hiding, feeding, and basking spots. Just because the pet store has so many lizards or turtles crammed into that tiny aquarium, it doesn't mean that they can live and be healthy in that situation. Usually there would be a dominant animal, but the herps are usually so stressed out from being caught (if they are wild-caught) and/or transported that they won't even bother feuding with the other herptiles. See the article on Mixing Species for more information.

While some snakes can live this way because they have a slower metabolism than other animals, most reptiles and amphibians need food on a daily basis to keep their bodies going. If a herp is not fed frequently (or when needed), they can become sluggish and lethargic. So is it okay to feed your herp one big food item every day? No, it is often better to feed several smaller food items every feeding than to feed one or two big ones (the exception here is snakes again, many owners find it better to feed their large constrictors one large prey item every feeding). It is easier for the animal to digest, and more nutrients can be extracted from the food.

Chameleons, anoles, and other lizards that can change colour do not do so to camouflage themselves, but their colour depends on their mood and their physical condition. The green anole, Anolis carolinensis, for example, can turn from lime green to brown. If the lizard is content, warm, and healthy, it will most probably be bright green. But, if the anole is ill, too cold, or stressed, it will be brown. Chameleons will sometimes use their colours to communicate with other chameleons. For example, let's say a male chameleon spots another male in it's territory, the first male may turn bright, vibrant colours to warn the other lizard, as if he were saying "Hey, get out of my territory!"

"Cold-blooded" is an outdated term- the proper word is ectothermic. Ectothermic literally means "heat from outside," describing how ectotherms like reptiles and amphibians rely on their environment to regulate their body temperature. With herps, what is important is the temperature gradient they are kept at, not so much whether you are "heating" them.

Every species has a preferred optimum temperature zone, or POTZ. You must provide a thermal gradient in its enclosure that allows the herp to pick and choose between temperatures so that it may warm up and cool down as they please. Read more in Heating Your Herp.

Last modified:Saturday, January 14, 2006.