Giant Green Iguana
Iguana iguana
By Christina Miller - Herptiles.net (http://www.herptiles.net)

"Draco"

Taxonomy Kingdom: Animalia Phylum: Chordata Class: Reptilia Subclass: Lepidosauria Order: Squamata Suborder: Sauria Infraorder: Iguania Family: Iguanidae Subfamily: Iguaninae Genus: Iguana Species: iguana

Table of Contents

I. Introduction II. Behaviour and Socialization Body Language Tail Dropping Snorting Changes During Breeding Season Taming and Socializing Your Iguana Iguanas and Other Pets, Others Iguanas III. Diet The Basic Diet Recipe Protein Food Preparation and Feeding Time Supplementation Treats and Foods to Avoid Variety Water IV. Housing Enclosure Size Substrate Cage Furniture Free Roaming Outdoor Enclosures V. Heating, Lighting and Humidity Heating Lighting Humidity VI. Health Cleanliness Common Diseases and Illnesses Sources

I. Introduction

Giant Green Iguanas are not suited to most captive situations, and are in no way easy to care for. They grow to an immense size, have special food, housing, heating and lighting requirements, and need their claws to be trimmed regularly (which can be painful for both iguana and owner). Not all of them are docile creatures; they are wild animals (no matter how "domesticated" some may seem) and are unpredictable. While iguanas are challenging to keep, if you care from them properly and are serious about keeping your iguana healthy for its possible 20-year lifespan, they can be rewarding pets.

This small lizard will grow to over 2 metres long!

This species of lizard is native to parts of Central and South America such as Mexico, Surinam, Brazil, El Salvador, and Colombia. Because of the massive habitat destruction in many of these places, green iguanas are considered "threatened" by CITES (Convention of International Trade of Endangered Species). Most iguanas seen in pet shops are either wild-caught from these places, or hatch in captivity from wild-caught, gravid females. They belong to the family of iguanid lizards, Iguanidae, subfamily Iguaninae. Formerly, there were two subspecies defined, however they are no longer recognized.

Iguanas can reach a large size, like this 1.2m male, before 5 years of age.

A giant lizard, adult male iguanas can reach a total length of 2.3m (7ft.) and weigh up to 8kg (18 lbs.), although more than 2/3 of their length is their strong, muscular tail. Females are typically not as long and not as heavy as males. Young iguanas are often a bright, minty-lime green with highlights of blue. As they get older, their colour usually fades to a duller green or gray, males will often have large patches of orange, some individuals turning almost completely orange or brown. Mature males usually have a heavy build, with thick legs and body. Males also have larger and longer dorsal spines, and have large fleshy bumps behind their lower jaws (not to be mistaken for metabolic bone disease). Females have smaller dorsal spines, heads, and generally a smaller build overall. On the underside of their hind legs, both sexes have femoral glands, although they are more developed on males and secrete a waxy substance during breeding season. They can live for 15-20 years under the proper care, so they are a long commitment.

II. Behaviour and Socialization

Every iguana has its own personality. Some will allow everyone near them with no problem, some will let only the human who they "know" best to handle them, and some are always aggressive and let no one handle them without giving them trouble, and of course there are iguanas who will have any combination of these "mood swings." When they are aggressive (males during breeding season may become particularly ornery), or you do not interpret their body language properly, they can be quite dangerous.

Body Language

When agitated, iguanas will extend the dewlap in order to look "bigger."   An example of an iguana hatcheting: The iguana's dewlap is extended, he raises himself from the ground, and readies his tail to whip. (Note that this iguana suffers from rhoecosis, a spinal deformity.)   This iguana is back slapping, a very relaxed position. Note how she lies on her chest, her legs sprawled behind her. Photo of IggieZ courtesy of Natalie Zastoupil.

Lizards from the iguanid family are visually-oriented animals. You will be able to more easily interpret your iguana's mood and reactions if you understand his body language. If it feels threatened or wants to intimidate another animal, an iguana will raise itself off the ground from the ground (higher than usual), it will extend its dewlap (the large flap of skin on its throat), and will "puff up" and display itself from the side to appear larger than it actually is. This is sometimes called "hatcheting" or "hatchet mode." When your iguana acts in this manner, it's pretty much trying to make you go away. Depending on the iguana, he or she may be calmed down, but if not left alone the iguana may attack. Igs aren't helpless, they can bite (and can draw blood, bites from large males often require stitches) and lash out with their tail, and both of these can be very painful. Another defense behaviour is the "crocodile roll," where the iguana will literally roll around and flail his limbs and tail. This usually occurs when an agitated ig is being held or restrained. A trick to calm down a struggling iguana is to hold the lizard high, above eye level. A completely relaxed iguana will lay on his chest, his hind legs sprawled behind him, forelimbs pointed backwards, tucked against his body (this position is called "back slapping"). Most iguanas will sleep in this position.

Tail Dropping

Like most lizards, Green Iguanas can autotomize their tail if they feel threatened. This defense mechanism, called caudal autotomy, occurs as a sort of "last ditch" effort for the lizard to escape a predator. Its tail breaks off, and the severed piece proceeds to twitch for several minutes afterwards (due to excited nerves left in the tail). This is supposed to distract the predator while the lizard runs away. The tail can and will regenerate after time, however the re-grown portion of the tail will not be the same colour or have the same texture as the original tail. Green Iguanas may only autotomize their tail as juveniles. As they mature, the tail stiffens, becoming a formidable whip-like weapon.

Regrown tails have different colour and scalation than the original tail, and rarely grow back properly, as seen above. Photo of Binkie courtesy of Nicholas Sanders.

Snorting

Iguanas cannot sweat or cry to get rid of excess salts from their system like other animals, so they snort, instead. Snorting looks similar to human sneezing. It is not uncommon to find salty deposits on the walls of your iguana's favourite basking spot, or a little around the lizard's nares. Normal secretions are whitish in colour, and have a crystalline, "salty" apperance when dry.

Changes During Breeding Season

If he or she has been properly cared for, your iguana will probably become sexually mature by the age of 18 months (you should be able to sex the ig at around 6 months, so that you can prepare for their breeding season). Iguanas typically enter breeding season between October and February, and it may last from 1 to 4 months in captivity. During this period, both male and female sexually mature igs have certain particularities that must be paid attention to. Note that both sexes may eat less, or stop eating, during their breeding season. This makes having a healthy iguana in the first place all the more important, so that no health problems relating to malnourishment arise.

Males: Male Green Iguanas are known for their aggression during breeding season. However, the severity and duration of seasonal aggression varies among individual iguanas. Most mature males will display colour changes when they're "in season:" It is not uncommon for your male to have large patches of orange or brown during this part of the year. Some males will also evert their hemipenes, sometimes while defecating. They may also leave seminal plugs, which are rubbery, dark-coloured, spiky-looking dried semen deposits (for photos of everted hemipenes and a seminal plug, see the Iguana Answers Breeding Aggression article by Steve Woodward). Behavioural changes are usually the most noticeable. Headbobbing and hatcheting may be more common, and the iguana may just be generally restless.


Male iguanas may act differently towards their human owners. Human males may be seen as competitors, and may be attacked. Female humans may be seen as potential mates, particularly during the woman's menstrual period. In either case, how you react to the iguana their first breeding season may dictate how they will act in later seasons. If you are male or female, the iguana may try to charge and bite you if it is making a mating advance (if you're female) or thinks you are a competitor (if you're male). In the wild, an iguana will be put off by either a larger male iguana, or a female that is unreceptive to mating.


Of course, this does not mean you have to discipline your ig, under no circumstance should you ever harm your iguana (this includes, but is not limited to, hitting and starving). Avoiding the iguana during his aggressive moods is your optino.


However, your iguana will still have plenty of energy, even if he's put off from expending it on you. To help, you should offer him an object to help him vent his breeding aggression. Giving him a stuffed toy, rolled up socks, or another soft, safe, and preferably green item to "mate" with can really help curb your iguana's aggression. See Jaimie Wang's "LuvSock" at Anapsid.org: LuvSocks for Male Iguanas. Male iguanas may also use other items around the house as "toys" to masturbate.


You must always be cautious when your male iguana is in season- Sometimes it's better to just leave him alone. Avoid doing things that you know provokes him. Certain owners find that wearing bright, bold colours, particularly green, sets their ig off.


Females: Unfortunately, breeding season is lethal in many captive, female iguanas because many owners are uninformed of their lizard's biology. Iguanas are like chickens, in a sense: They will ovulate and develop eggs, unfertilized, even with no male iguana present. This means that the female iguana must be healthy to lay these eggs, or she could suffer from dystocia (often called egg-binding when referring to reptiles or birds), which requires veterinary attention. Because iguanas may eat less during breeding season, and producing eggs takes a large toll on their body's calcium, it is extremely important that the iguana has been fed a healthy diet with the proper amount of calcium. Of course, diet is not the only factor, sufficient ultraviolet lighting (see Heating, Lighting and Humidity, below), and proper housing can all affect the iguana's ability to absorb and use calcium. Adding a calcium supplement to the food once or twice a week (in addition to any supplementation you had been doing, previously) for several weeks before breeding season can help prepare your iguana for the loss of calcium she'll experience while producing eggs. Or, during breeding season, offer an oral, liquid calcium supplement (see Green Iguana: Preparing for Egg Development, Laying and Incubation by Melissa Kaplan).


Aside from your iguana being healthy, an egg-laying box is necessary for your iguana to naturally lay her eggs. You should provide a large (large enough for her to comfortably turn around inside), enclosed box with several inches of moistened sand. Preferably, the box should have some sort of "tunnel" entrance, and a lid secured so that it doesn't move and jostle while the iguana is inside, thrashing around and digging. James Hatfield's book, Green Iguana: The Ultimate Owner's Manual has an excellent set of instructions for a laying box. A simple pan of dirt of sand isn't an adequate nesting box for a green iguana.


Sterilization: Sterilization or neutering (spaying females, castrating males) is common with cats and dogs to prevent health problems and unwanted breeding. However, the long-term effects of neutering iguanas (or any reptile) are still for the most part undocumented or unknown. In both cases, you eliminate the animal's ability to reproduce.


Contrary to popular belief, castrating (removing the testes) male iguanas does not guarantee that breeding season aggression will stop. The testes are not the only organs that produce male sex hormones, the pineal gland in the brain also produces hormones related to seasonal aggression. Castration before sexually maturity is more likely to reduce the iguana's chance of being aggressive during breeding season, however the iguana will not develop adult male characteristics.


On the other hand, spaying your female iguana, that is, removing her ovaries and oviduct (which can be paralleled to the mammalian uterus or uterine horns), is much more effective than castration in males. It completely stops the iguana from being able to produce eggs, which eliminates the risk of becoming egg-bound. But, it's not necessarily healthy to simply spay the iguana so that she cannot produce and lay eggs. Spaying should really only be used in cases where the iguana is egg-bound and needs surgical intervention, so that she will not become egg-bound again. Until we know the long-term health effects of spaying iguanas, it should not be routinely performed as it is in dogs and cats.

Taming and Socializing Your Iguana

Iguanas are not naturally tame animals. They have not been domesticated like dogs and cats, and even if tamed in captivity, are still wild, unpredictable animals, ruled by instinct, even though they are quite intelligent. Even tame iguanas can be dangerous. You must understand that iguanas, particularly hatchlings and juveniles, are afraid that you are a predator. Ultimately, you want the iguana to understand that you are not a predator, and that you are the dominant, alpha "iguana" that can't be bossed around. You want to train your iguana, not the other way around.

First of all, "taming down" a newly acquired iguana is a gradual process, go about it slowly in small steps. After the iguana has been checked out by a reptile vet (and hopefully your lizard is healthy), let it get used to its new home (a week and a half to two weeks). Don't keep putting it off, however. The longer you wait to tame your iguana, the longer it will take him or her to understand that you are not dangerous, and your presence will be stressful to him or her.

First, allow the iguana used to you being around the enclosure. Next, place your hand inside the enclosure, but do not try to touch the iguana, but gradually get closer to the iguana each time. Once the lizard has gotten used to your presence inside the enclosure, he may allow you to gently touch him, or offer him food from your hand (but you may not want the ig to depend solely on hand-feeding, he needs to learn where his food bowl is so that he can eat when you are not around). If you pet the lizard, his side may be the "best" place. Some igs are very sensitive about their head, limbs, and tail being touched, and some individuals may not allow any physical contact without putting up a fight. Try different parts of your iguana's body to see where he prefers to be rubbed or gently scratched.

Be patient! Sometimes you may think you have made a lot of progress in one session, to find out the next day that the iguana is a vicious as he was on day one. Whenever your iguana decides to retaliate to your efforts by scratching, tail-whipping, biting or crocodile rolling, do not give up and put him back in his cage. This will teach the iguana that if he puts up a fight, you'll go away and leave him alone, making all previous efforts to tame down the ig pointless. Train your iguana, do not let your iguana train you!

If you allow your iguana to be the "boss" of you, you are letting yourself slip down the social hierarchy ladder. The more submissive you appear to the iguana, whether you realize it or not, the longer your iguana will continue to do things that you don't want.

Iguanas and Other Pets, Other Iguanas

Some iguanas may get along fine with humans, but other pets are a different story. While many of us have heard endearing tales of iguanas befriending cats, dogs, birds, or other pets, these really are the minority. There is no way to tell for certain how your animals will react when introduced to each other, as they are unpredictable, wild animals. If you do decide to let them "meet" each other, never leave them together unattended.

Iguanas, like the vast majority of reptiles and amphibians, are solitary animals. Baby iguanas are often seen housed in large numbers in pet shops, but housing multiple iguanas together in captivity is not a good idea. Males of all reptiles are notorious for territorial aggression (which can lead in one or more severely injured, or dead, iguana), and female Green Iguanas may also be territorial. Again, from iguana owner's stories, it is possible to have two iguanas co-exist in the same enclosure, but the chance of the two lizards being incompatible is much, much too high for the risk to be worth it.

 

III. Diet

Green Iguanas are folivores in the wild, which means they naturally feed on foliage. In captivity, providing your iguana with a nutritious herbivorous diet is one of the key factors in keeping your iguana healthy.

The Iguana Food Pyramid

Green Iguanas have a food pyramid just like we do, and it should be respected when planning their diet.

The iguana food pyramid, adapted from Hatfield's Green Iguana: The Ultimate Owner's Manual.

Most green iguanas relish any leafy greens... Avocado Blueberries Buttercup Squash Collard Greens Dandelion Greens Dates Escarole Figs Green Beans Kabocha Squash Parsnips Rapini Snow Peas Sweet Potato Yucca Root (Cassava) ...but a healthy, balanced diet of suitable greens, vegetetables and fruit is much better for your iguana.

Dark, leafy, green vegetables should make up about 60% of your iguana's daily diet. Tear the leaves into pieces a bit smaller than your iguana's head and offer them with the rest of the salad. You could also leave them as larger leaves and hang them in the cage so that the iguana can tear off pieces at will (offer these after the iguana has eaten most or all of the vegetable/fruit part of its food). Not all greens are suitable for igs, though. The following are recommended, and one to three of the greens marked with an asterix should always be used in the iguana's salad: Collard Greens* Mustard Greens* Turnip Greens* Rapini Dandelion Greens* Mulberry Leaves Escarole  Romaine Lettuce Other vegetables and should make up about 30% of the diet. Use at least one vegetable from the yellow/orange group, and at least one from the green group: Green: Snap Peas   Snow Peas   Green Beans   Wax Beans Yellow/Orange: Acorn Squash   Spaghetti Squash   Kabocha Squash   Buttercup Squash   Sweet Potato About 10% of their daily diet should be fruit. Fruit is an excellent source of moisture, but a poor source of vitamins. Fruit adds colour, texture and smell/flavour to the salad. Select one or two of these daily: Figs Raspberries Papaya Plums Apricots Cantaloupe Kiwis Avocado (high in fat, do not overfeed) Strawberries Mango Dates Blueberries

Protein

Iguanas need protein, just like we do. However, animal protein is unhealthy for iguanas to consume, as they are herbivores. Alfalfa is an excellent source of plant protein (and calcium) for your iguana. Avoid use of sprouts because of the risk that they may transmit salmonella, but use the hay processed into small bits and powder (personally, I like to use a coffee bean grinder, it chops the hay up into little bits quite easily). Alfalfa pellets should also be avoided, as their main ingredient is usually wheat, which has a rather low calcium to phosphorus ratio. Also, some iguanas are apparently allergic to wheat. Alfalfa pills or capsules are available in health food stores; pills may be ground into powder, and capsules may be opened and poured onto the iguana's food. See Nutritional Contribution of Alfalfa in Iguana Salad, by Melissa Kaplan.

Some sources state that iguanas eat both plant and animal matter in the wild, and there has been much debate over this. Wild iguanas eating total "junk food" in the wild has been observed (like chickens), but this is assumed to be prompted by the presence of people and their diet in the iguana's natural habitat. The fact is that iguanas are herbivores. They have a digestive system similar to that of herbivorous mammals like horses and rabbits, which are hindgut fermentors (the bacteria needed to break down plant matter is found in the animal's caecum). Feeding Green Iguanas animal protein, such as meat, poultry, fish, insects or egg will lead to severe health problems and early death. See Animal Protein and Green Iguanas, by Melissa Kaplan, and Animal Protein by Adam Britton.

Food Preparation and Feeding Time

Wash all food items thoroughly (except the alfalfa), and cut up or grate the vegetables and fruits into small pieces, mix with shredded greens and serve to the iguana. A food processor can be used to chop tough vegetables into small pieces, but do not purree the foods as this is not very palatable, and it will spoil more quickly.

Iguanas should be offered food in a shallow dish in the morning, so that they may eat, then bask. Iguanas need to bask in order to properly digest their food.

Supplementation

Usage of vitamin and mineral supplements is debatable. In captivity, it is nearly impossible to offer the variety of food that a wild iguana has access to, so we are unsure of whether we are providing our pet iguanas with all of the vitamins and minerals they would normally eat in the wild.

If it was possible that you are supplying all the needed vitamins and minerals to your captive iguana, supplements would be obsolete, and you risk over-supplementation. But, it is very unlikely that you are providing your iguana with every nutrient it requires. Multivitamin and mineral supplementation one or twice a week for adults, and every second day for juveniles could be adequate, providing that they consume a balanced diet daily. A qualified reptile veterinarian could properly determine if your lizard requires supplementation.

Treats and Foods to Avoid

Not all fruits and vegetables are suitable for green iguanas to eat. Although people consume some of the following veggies, iguanas do not have the same biology as us: humans are omnivorous (we eat both plant and animal matter).

Nutrient Antagonists

Nutrient antagonists are natural chemicals found in foods that make certain nutrients unavailable to the body. These don't only affect iguanas, though. People are also affected by nutrient antagonists, although problems in people aren't seen very often because we have a much more varied diet than iguanas.

Goitrogens: Goitrogens are a chemical group that bind to iodine, rendering it unusable to the body. They are found in many foods, but particularly in the cruciferous vegetables (vegetables that belong to the genus Brassica). Foods include: Broccoli, cabbage, kale, bok-choy (Chinese cabbage), turnips, Brussels sprouts, tofu, rutabaga, cauliflower. These foods should never be a staple food, but can occasionally be added for variety. Feeding foods containing goitrogens regularly often leads to hypothyroidism in iguanas. Note that collard greens and mustard greens are cruciferous vegetables, but do not contain goitrogens and are excellent staple greens.

Oxalates and phytates: Both of these chemicals are found to bind to calcium, making it so that the body cannot use the calcium. Oxalates (found mainly in plants of the genus Oxalis) bind to calcium to form calcium oxalate, which is unusable to the body. Phytate is a form of phosphorous, that can bind to calcium, zinc, iron and other minerals, and also interferes with protein digestion. Feeding lots of foods high in either oxalates or phytates will cause serious health problems, so they should only be fed occasionally and in moderation. The following foods contain significant amounts of oxalates, phytates or both: Spinach, swiss chard, cassava, beets and beet greens, sorrel, whole grains, celery, carrot, kale. There is no solid documentation that oxalates and phytates have the same effect in iguanas as they do in humans, however it has been noted that iguanas fed these foods regularly will develop problems, such as calcium deficiency, which indicates that they most likely do affect iguanas as well.

Tannin: Tannin makes protein unusable, renders digestive enzymes useless, and can also interfere with vitamin B12 and iron metabolism in the body. Like the above food groups, tannins should not be fed in excess, but can be offered occasionally. Foods that contain significant amounts of tannin include: Spinach, grapes, carrots, bananas, onions and lettuce.

Other Foods to Be Cautious Of

Animal protein: Feeding animal protein is unnatural for iguanas since they are herbivorous. Feeding animal protein can lead to serious health problems. Dog food, cat food, monkey chow, insects/invertebrates, mice, eggs, meat, poultry, and fish should NEVER be fed to green iguanas.

Citrus and other acidic fruits: Many iguanas do not like the taste of these, and we are unsure if iguanas can properly digest acidic foods. They can be offered occasionally if your iguana accepts them: Orange, lemon, lime, kiwi, tomato, grapefruit, pineapple.

Commercial diets: Commercial iguana food, pelleted or canned, is unsuitable as a staple food for your iguana. Higher-quality commercial foods can be fed occasionally in addition to fresh vegetables, greens and fruits. The only commercial diet that is nutritionally acceptable for iguanas is Dr. Susan Donoghue's Quantum Series Iguana Diet.

Dairy Products: Dairy foods such as milk, cheese, ice cream and yogurt are unsuitable for reptiles, including iguanas. Do not feed dairy products to your iguana.

House plants: NEVER feed your iguana foliage, stems or flowers from any house or garden plant unless you are absolutely certain that the species of plant is not toxic to your iguana. See the Green Iguana Society's toxic plant site list, and Catherine Rigby-Burdette's Iguana Nutrition FAQ toxic plant site list.

Lettuce: Lettuces are some of the most nutritionally useless foods available, and unfortunately, many iguanas love the taste of lettuce. They are little more than fibre and water. Iceberg, romaine, Boston and butter lettuce are just some of the nutritionally useless lettuces, that should rarely, if ever, be fed to your iguana. Think of lettuce as "crunchy air" that takes up valuable space in their diet.

Rhubarb: Rhubarb is toxic to green iguanas and should never be fed.

Tofu: While tofu is high in plant protein, it is also high in fat and goitrogens. Tofu can be fed occasionally, but never as a regular part of the diet. Alfalfa is a much better source of plant protein.

Treats

Treats are fun for your iguana, and add more variety to its diet. Every once in a while you can offer your iguana treats such as hibiscus leaves and flowers, nasturtium leaves and flowers, geranium leaves and flowers, a bit of plain, cooked noodles (chopped up), and even a little bit of plain, whole wheat bread. The fruits and vegetables listed above that are bad to feed regularly can also be given as the occasional treat.

Variety!

Even if you are providing a healthy diet, variety is the key to success. If you are feeding the exact same diet, day after week after month after year, the shortcomings of your iguana's diet, however small they may be, may cause problems. Don't use the same staple greens and vegetables all the time, switch them to other healthy choices periodically, and occasionally add fruits or vegetables that shouldn't be fed as a staple. Iguanas can get bored of their food, just like humans can! Keeping the diet varied will also help your iguana get used to new staple vegetables if something suddenly becomes unavailable where you live.

Water

Your iguana will get most water from the food it eats, but you should always provide fresh water in the enclosure for the iguana to drink. A dish or bowl of water, not too tall so that your iguana cannot reach inside, but not too shallow so that your iguana cannot dip his mouth in to drink, should be present in the enclosure at all times. Change the water daily and whenever soiled (many igs like to defecate in water), and disinfect the container weekly and if the iguana defecates in it. A kitty litter pan, partially full, is a great option. It is large enough for the iguana to go in and defecate (making poop clean-up simple), is easy to drink out of, and really helps increase the humidity in the iguana's enclosure.

Some iguanas will also lap water from plant leaves. If you have artificial plants in your iguana's enclosure, spray them with a bottle of water to see if your iguana will accept water that way. Even if you spray the plants, still offer a dish of water.

 

IV. Housing

While a 230L (60-gallon) enclosure could house a baby iguana, the lizard will outgrow it before it is a year old. It is better to save some money and buy or build a large enclosure in the first place. Hatfield's book, Green Iguana: The Ultimate Owner's Manual, has a superb enclosure design idea and construction details.

Enclosure Size

The enclosure must be at least 1.5x their STL (snout-to-tail length) wide, at least 1x their STL in height, and 1x their STL in depth. For most full grown iguanas, 2m tall by 2m wide by 1.3m deep (6' x 6' x 4') is a bare minimum. An enclosure that opens by the front or side is a good idea, and it should be well ventilated. If, however, you choose to have your iguana inside it's cage for a small amount of time and free-roam most of the day, the cage being the minimum size shouldn't be too much of a problem. In an ideal situation, your iguana would have a complete room to its own.

Substrate

Substrate is what covers the floor of the enclosure. Even though iguanas are arboreal, they do travel to the bottom of their enclosure daily, mainly to defecate. So, your iguana enclosure's substrate does matter. Whenever the substrate is soiled, it must be cleaned immediately (or daily). Unfortunately, many substrates are unsuitable, dangerous, even deadly to green iguanas.

Particulate substrate: This is any substrate that consists of small pieces of anything. Particulate substrate includes, but is not limited to: Wood chips, wood shavings, sawdust, bark chips, alfalfa pellets (pelleted rabbit food), ground corncob, gravel, sand, dirt, potting soil, kitty litter, coconut husk (matted or ground), commercial "lizard litter," "bed-a-beast" or others. ALL PARTICULATE SUBSTRATE IS UNSUITABLE FOR IGUANAS. Iguanas are curious lizards that will taste foreign objects, and since they are rather unable to "spit" things out, they may end up swallowing pieces of whatever they have in their mouth. This can lead to intestinal impactions, which can be fatal and require immediate veterinary attention. Furthermore, some woods (cedar and aspen are two common, aromatic woods) emit fumes that are toxic to small animals like iguanas. The bottom line: The risk of keeping your iguana on ANY particulate substrate is too high. Particulate substrates should never be used, there are no exceptions.

"Sheet" substrate: Any substrate that is one or more large sheets of material is already safer than particulate substrates, although some are better than others, and a few do have some dangers that you should be aware of.

• Newspaper (printed or inkless): This is a cost-efficient, easy choice. It's often cheap or free, easy to acquire, and when soiled all you have to do is replace it. The only downside is that it does not absorb fluids very well, so you may end up with a large mess if you have a big iguana. Printed newspaper should be avoided with young, small iguanas, as the ink fumes are noxious.
  
• Brown paper bags: Paper grocery bags can be cut to be used as substrate, like newspaper. But like newspaper, it does not absorb liquid very well.
  
• Indoor/outdoor carpeting: This carpeting is tougher, than regular, indoor carpeting, and the weave is tighter and flatter so that there are no loose threads that your iguana can catch its toes on. It is relatively cheap if bought from a hardware or home renovation store. You will need several pieces of this carpeting cut to fit the bottom of the enclosure, because it must be removed and cleaned when soiled. Let the carpeting dry out completely before putting it back into the enclosure, as wet substrate is a breeding ground for harmful bacteria. If the carpet has any fumes after you buy it, air it out outside for a day or two before placing it in the enclosure.
  
• Astroturf; (artificial grass turf, grass carpet): Astroturf® is not as suitable as the other above choices. Like indoor/outdoor carpeting, you should have several pieces on hand because it must be removed from the enclosure and cleaned whenever soiled. Cheaper versions often shed blades of plastic grass, which can be swallowed by your iguana. As a further precaution, melt the edges of the piece of carpet so that there are no frayed edges with pieces of grass that can be eaten. Also, certain types of grass carpeting are made with "looped" grass, which can be very dangerous for iguana toes. If you decide to use this substrate, find a carpeting that has blades of plastic grass, not loops, and you should completely replace it when the blades start to weaken and fall out.
  
• "The Ultimate Substrate:" Hatfield makes a great suggestion for substrate. Take several pieces of newspaper, and then tape (with masking tape) several layers of paper towels onto the top of the newspaper. The newspaper provides some bulk, and the paper towel is very absorbent and allows the iguana to easily wipe its vent after defecating.

Bare floor: If the floor of your iguana's enclosure is an easy-to-clean, safe surface like ceramic tile, leaving the floor bare is a possibility. You would have to remove feces and urates from the surface, and disinfect it as well. However, these surfaces are hard and slippery, and may be uncomfortable for your iguana to walk on.

Personally, I use a combination of indoor/outdoor carpeting, and "The Ultimate Substrate." The bottom of my iguana's enclosure is covered in carpeting, except the section where he always defecates, which has the newspaper/paper towel combo.

Cage Furniture

Iguanas are arboreal lizards, that is, they spend most of their time in trees. In the wild, iguanas have massive trees to climb and bask on, so in captivity our goal is to re-create a similar environment. While most enclosures cannot accommodate several large trees (much less one large tree), a series of wide shelves and suitable branches is an appropriate substitute. Environmental enrichment, such as hide areas and visual stimuli, should also be included. Iguanas are intelligent lizards, and can get bored and develop behavioural problems like other captive animals.

Sometimes it takes a bit of creativity when coming up with climbing toy ideas! Photo of Scar courtesy of Nicholas Sanders.

Shelves: Shelves will take the place of natural branches where the iguanas would bask and feed. You should have a shelf beneath the basking area, and at least one other shelf further down in the enclosure, preferably with a fixture to hold the iguana's feeding bowl (this is to keep the dish away from the bottom of the enclosure, where the iguana will probably defecate). Shelves should be at least 1.5 times the width of the iguana's girth, so that the iguana can manoeuvre and turn around on the shelf if it wants. Indoor/outdoor carpeting can be fastened to the shelving so that the iguana can grip its claws onto the shelves easier (Hatfield suggests attaching Velcro to the shelf and carpeting, so that the carpet can easily be removed to be cleaned). The shelves should be securely fastened to the walls of the enclosure.

Branches: Your iguana needs to climb to reach its basking and feeding shelves (and also for exercise), so giving it lots of climbing "toys" such as branches are important to keep your iguana healthy. Branches should be a little wider than the iguana's girth, and positioned diagonally so that the iguana can use the branches to access the shelves. Branches should be secured in place so that they cannot be tipped over or knocked onto the iguana.

Branches can be real wood, but it still must be suitable for the iguana. The following are things to take into consideration when finding a real wooden branch (according to Hatfield):

• Variety of shapes and sizes,
• free of parasites or other insects,
• from a non-poisonous wood or plant,
• no sap or resins present,
• can be well-secured in the enclosure,
• free of tight grooves or nooks where the iguana can catch a tail or a limb,
• does not have any exposed bolts/screws/nail heads,
• wood is not too smooth so that iguana cannot hold on,
• no sharp points or twigs,
• not too steep.

If you take a branch from outside, be certain to properly disinfect it before adding it to your iguana's enclosure.

Artificial limbs can also be created. Wide, PVC pipe or smooth lumber covered in indoor/outdoor carpeting (use glue to secure the carpeting) can be very effective. Make sure that all fumes from the carpet and glue have dissipated- Air out the "branch" outside for several days before putting it into your iguana's enclosure.

Vertical climbing surfaces: Encorporating vertical surfaces on which your iguana can safely climb is another possible addition to its enclosure. Very rough branches, lattice or other surfaces, secured VERY firmly, can be placed as access "routes" to shelves, in addition to the branches.

Hide areas: You may provide your iguana a hide box when it is young, but you do not want your iguana to become completely dependant of the hide box and stay in there all the time. A hide box can be made out of pretty much anything that you can cut a hole into. The entrance to the hide must be large enough for the iguana to pass through, and the box must be large enough for it to turn around to be able to exit.

A better alternative is to create an area where the iguana feels hidden, but isn't completely confined. This can be accomplished by partially blocking off a section of shelving, either with wood or fake plants (a much nicer choice). Using fake plants attached around the edge of the shelf creates a sort of "tree-like" arboreal hide area.

Water dish: Iguanas should ideally have two water dishes in their enclosure, at least one of them should be on a shelf, above the floor. Dishes on shelves should be secured in place so that they do not fall, and dishes on the floor should be untippable to the iguana. They should be kept clean; fresh, unsoiled water should be available at all times (especially during breeding season). A kitty litter pan, partially full, is a great option. It is large enough for the iguana to go in and defecate (making poop clean-up simple), is easy to drink out of, and really helps increase the humidity in the iguana's enclosure.

Free Roaming

Letting your iguana have the run of a room (or several) is a great way to socialize, entertain and excercise your iguana. Personally, I do not recommend leaving your iguana free roam instead of an enclosure (the hazards are countless), but allowing your lizard out of its enclosure for a period of time every day or every other day is good for it. Your iguana should be at least 2 years old (or about 70cm, 2 feet long) to free roam. Small iguanas can easily get lost or killed.

If you want your iguana to free roam, you must iguana-proof the room or rooms that he will have access to, much like you would a child:

• Shelves and furniture that iguana can climb on are easily accessible and sturdy.
• Surfaces that the iguana should NOT climb on are inaccessible (this includes curtains!).
• No small or hazardous objects that can be swallowed. Includes: Thumbtacks, kitty litter, rubber bands, balloons, pieces of paper, paper clips, staples, nylon stockings or pantyhose, jewelry, coins, tissues (Kleenex), batteries, etc.
• No fragile objects that can be broken.
• No carpeting is ideal so that it is easier to clean if the iguanas defecates, and so that the iguana cannot get its claws or toes stuck in the loops.
• If there is carpeting, it should be the matted, non-loop type. The carpet should be free of small objects, dirt, hair, fur and other junk. Vaccuum before the iguana is allowed to roam.
• You should not clean floors with harsh cleansers that have noxious fumes.
• Try not to have heavy furniture so close to the walls so that there are tight, hard-to-reach spaces that your iguana can be stuck behind.
• The lids of any toilets should be down.
• No houseplants are present, unless you are certain they are iguana-safe. See the Green Iguana Society's toxic plant site list, and Catherine Rigby-Burdette's Iguana Nutrition FAQ toxic plant site list. Note that if a plant is not on any of the lists, this does not mean it is safe! Even safe plants can be dangerous, as the soil may have Perlite (little Styrofoam balls), which can cause an impaction if eaten.
• No dangerous heat sources, such as fireplaces, space heaters, radiators or halogen lamps, should be present or turned on.
• Make sure all windows are closed. If you have a screen covering your window, be certain that it is durable enough so that the iguana's claws cannot tear through it. Normal glass filters UVB radiation, however there is a type of glass (usually used in greenhouses) that does allow UVB passage. If you live in a cold climate, make windows inaccessible because of cold drafts.
• Do not let other pets (including, but not limited to, dogs, cats and other iguanas) roam the same room(s) as the iguana. The same goes for small children.
• Other pet enclosures, including those of other reptiles, amphibians, small mammals, birds, and fish should be completely inaccessible.

Other things must be taken into consideration to make the rooms outside the iguana's enclosure a more suitable habitat:

• If you provide a basking spot, make sure the heat lamp and/or UVB-producing bulb are completely out-of-reach. The iguana should have an easily accessible, comfortable shelf or surface below the basking spot. A basking spot is particularly necessary if the iguana spends lots of time out of its habitat, if you live in a colder climate, or if you use air conditioning.
• Iguanas often defecate in the same spot. Let the iguana train you: Place newspaper in the spots where your iguana does its business to make cleaning a little easier.
• The ambient temperature should be suitable for the iguana, so that it does not get too cold to be able to seek its basking spot. This means at least in the lower range of the green iguana's preferred optimal temperature zone (no less than 20°C, or 70°F). The rooms should also be free of accessible cold spots and hot spots.
• If your iguana hides anywhere, remove him from the hiding spot immediately. Iguanas who hide can suffocate, become too cold, overheat, or just plain get stuck in a variety of hiding places.

Outdoor Enclosures

Providing your iguana with exposure to direct sunlight is excellent for its health, and a good way to do this is to provide an outdoor enclosure. If your climate allows it, you can let your iguana have some outside time for at least part of the year. Outdoor cages have requirements similar to indoor ones, with a few additions:

• The enclosure must be made of appropriate materials: Heavy screen or wire works well, preferably coated with plastic. Glass enclosures are like ovens in sunlight and should be avoided completely. Wooden enclosures may also retain too much heat.
• The enclosure must be large enough for the iguana to comfortably move around.
• There must be a shaded area in the enclosure so that the iguana can retreat from the sun.
• The cage should be constructed in a place that is difficult for other animals (dogs, cats, skunks, etc.) to reach, and it must be secured so that birds cannot attack the iguana.
• Like in an indoor enclosure, this cage must have ledges, branches, a water disk (fresh water at all times), and a place for food.
• The floor of the enclosure must be large enough for the iguana to be able to defecate comfortably.
• The door to the enclosure must be escape-proof.

 

V. Heating, Lighting, and Humidity

Heating

Iguanas, being reptiles, are ectotherms. This means that they rely on their environment to regulate their body temperature. All reptiles have a preferred optimal temperature zone, or POTZ. This is a range of temperatures that the reptile's body can function properly in. Iguanas will move around different temperature spots in their environment to keep their body within their POTZ. See Heating Your Herp for a more detailed explanation.

Your iguana's enclosure should have a cool end and a warm end. The cool end should be no lower than 20°C (70°F), the warm end should be about 32°C (90°F). This provides a gradient in which the iguana can regulate its body temperature. You also need to provide a basking spot, a "hot spot" where the iguana can go to warm up quickly, which should reach about 38-40°C (100-104°F). At night, the entire enclosure should not be cooler than 20°C (70°F). If the enclosure is insulated (or even if it's not), heating at night may not be necessary. Note that you CANNOT guess what temperature your iguana's enclosure is at, you must have at LEAST two thermometres, one in the warm end and one in the cool end. Ideally, you should have a third, in the basking spot. Improper temperatures can seriously affect the health of your animal. Green iguanas can overheat and die of hyperthermia just as easily as they can be too cold and die of hypothermia.

The simplest, safest and most cost-efficient heating devices are incandescent bulbs. To be used for daytime heating, because they produce light. They come in various wattages and styles, and are cheap and can be found in most stores (the more expensive "reptile heating bulbs" sold for quadruple the price do almost exactly the same thing as any "spot" bulb of the same wattage). If needed, incandescent bulbs made of red or blue glass can be used to heat the enclosure at night (these colours are not as harsh on the iguana's eyes, but some iguanas are still bothered by them so watch your iguana closely for signs of stress).

Ceramic heat emitters (CHEs) are also effective heating devices, but they emit no light. They are rather expensive, but apparently can last several years. You can use them for heating the enclosure at night if needed. Note that they get extremely hot, and can be fire hazards if not used correctly. Only use them in porcelain (not plastic) light sockets, and keep them away from wood, particularly wood treated with flammable substances.

Hot rocks should NEVER be used. They are faulty, unsafe products. Also, iguanas get their heat from the sun, an overhead source, so heated rocks are an unnatural way for them to warm themselves. In short, HOT ROCKS ARE BAD, NEVER USE THEM.

All heating fixtures should be completely inaccessible to the iguana. They should be protected by tough screen, or better yet, outside of the enclosure completely. Severe burns can occur if the iguana touches a heating device.

Lighting

Iguanas are diurnal lizards, so lighting is an important issue. Allow your iguana a photoperiod of 12-14 hours during the summer, decrease it to 8-10 during fall and winter.

Like most animals active during the day, iguanas need light that includes ultraviolet A and B radiation. UVA promotes normal behaviour, and UVB is absolutely necessary for calcium metabolism. Natural sunlight provides these wavelengths, and that is the absolute best option. However, not all of us are able to provide our iguanas several hours or unfiltered sunlight every day. Most light bulbs produce amounts of UVA, but certain fluorescent bulbs are needed to provide UVA and UVB light.

Some examples of reputable brands of full-spectrum bulbs. All of these brands are recommended, although pricing depends on location and availability.

Zoo Med's ReptiSun or Zoo Med's IguanaLight are reliable choices, along with VitaLite by Durotest. "Active UV" bulbs and mercury vapour lamps provide both heat and UVB radiation, which seems like it could reduce the number of fixtures in your iguana's enclosure. However, these bulbs emit VERY high, potentially dangerous amounts of UVB to both iguanas and humans. They should only be used in VERY LARGE enclosures where the iguana has access to completely shaded areas, and the minimum distance between animal and light source listed on the package is respected. Please see Melissa Kaplan's article, Mercury Vapor Heat & UV Lamps. Lack of UVA and UVB lighting will result in a very ill iguana. Sicknesses such as metabolic bone disease can occur, which is lethal if left untreated. When possible, you should still let your iguana soak up some natural, unfiltered sunlight. Please see Sunlight and Reptile UVB Tubes by Anne Marsden, Musings on D3 and UV... by Melissa Kaplan.

Providing your iguana with vitamin D3 orally is NOT a suitable replacement for UVB exposure. Iguanas cannot properly metabolize D3 when ingested. See Idiosyncrasies of Vitamin D Metabolism in the Green Iguana (Iguana iguana), Bernard et al.

All lighting fixtures should be completely inaccessible to the iguana, like heating fixtures. However, in order to be effective, they must not be placed further than 45 cm (18") from the iguana's basking spot, because UVB radiation dissipates over distances. There also must not be a barrier covering the light, including glass and plastic, as they do not allow UVB to pass. Even screen or mesh can drastically reduce the amount of UVB reaching your lizard.

Humidity

Iguanas come from humid, jungle-forest areas of South America. The humidity level in the enclosure should be high, between 60-75%. Install a hygrometer, which can be found in most pet shops that carry reptile supplies, to measure the level of humidity.

Keeping the humidity high may be a problem if you live in a dry climate. Regular misting of the enclosure with a spray bottle can become tedious if you are really having trouble keeping the humidity high enough. Using a room humidifier with a simple tube attachment, fed into the enclosure is one solution. Giving the iguana warm baths every other day can also help make up for inadequate humidity levels.

Proper humidity levels ensure that your iguana will shed its skin properly. However, if there is inadequate ventilation or the humidity is always too high, bacterial and fungal growth is promoted, which can lead to health problems (such as respiratory infections) for your iguana. Of course, the enclosure must be kept very clean to discourage this from happening.

 

VI. Health

Green iguanas can be very susceptible to disease and disorders if not kept properly. If you suspect your iguana is sick, or if it is bleeding, paralyzed, vomitting, has abnormal swellings or may have a broken bone, you must take it to a qualified reptile veterinarian immediately. Reptiles do not usually show symptoms of sickness until it is too late, unlike mammals and birds. You should take your iguana for regular vet checkups, as well. To find a competent reptile veterinarian in your area, please see the Association of Reptile and Amphibian Veterinarians (ARAV) website.

Cleanliness

Keeping your iguana's enclosure clean is the first step (sometimes the only step needed) to keeping your iguana healthy.

• All fecal matter should be removed as soon as possible, and any area that came in contact with fecal or uratic matter should be thoroughly cleaned with an antibacterial soap.
• Any spilled food or shed skin should be removed from the enclosure.
• Spilled water should be let dry, unless the water is contaminated with feces. In that case, properly disinfect the area.
• The entire enclosure should be cleaned and disinfected every few weeks. Use non-noxious, antibacterial cleaners. Products such as Pine Sol, undiluted bleach, and others that emit strong fumes should be avoided.

If you question the effectiveness of your antibacterial cleaning agent, a combination of washing the surface with diluted bleach, rinsing thoroughly, then washing with diluted vinegar and rinsing thoroughly is also an apparently effective way to disinfect. See The Importance of Cleanliness.

Common Diseases and Illnesses

Abscess: An abscess is the result of an infection that the body "walls off" so that it does not spread, however no antibodies can penetrate the wall to fight the infection. They usually occur when there is a systemic infection or at the site of an improperly disinfected wound, but they can appear "out of the blue" as well. It may appear as a localized swelling, sometimes a red or yellowish (occasionally crusty) bump is seen between scales.

Abscesses need to be treated by a veterinarian. Typically, the abscess is opened and flushed with an antiseptic solution, and antibiotics are administered. This is a surgical procedure and should not be attempted at home! See Treating Abscesses in Reptiles by Melissa Kaplan for more information.

Hypothyroidism and goiter: If your iguana is not getting enough iodine in its diet, or if it is eating a large amount of goitrogens, the thyroid gland will swell (which may show through the neck, known as a goiter) and not produce enough thyroid hormone (hypothyroidism). The iguana will become lethargic, less repsonsive to being handled, its growth will be stunted and will gain an overall "chubby" look. Hypothyroidism can be avoided by feeding a suitable diet, where goitrogen-containing foods are kept to a minimum.

Gout: Gout is caused by eating too much protein, and occurs frequently in iguanas that are regularly fed animal matter. It causes painful swellings in the joints and in some other tissues (such as the eyes), lethargy, and an unhealthy appearance to the iguana's scales. Uric acid is a product of protein digestion, and if too much protein is eaten it crystallizes and builds up in the tissues of the joints, kidneys, lungs and liver. Chronic dehydration and prior kidney damage can also cause gout by hindering the iguana's ability to get rid of uric acid. See Protein, Gout and Renal Failure in Reptiles by Melissa Kaplan.

Prevention is the only "cure" for gout. Veterinary attention is absolutely necessary, and surgery may be needed. Gout causes a permenant and painful disability, and is fatal if left completely untreated.

Kidney disease, kidney failure: Symptoms of kidney failure include lethargy, sudden loss of weight and/or appetite sometimes with polydipsia (excessive thirst), abnormal urination (less urates and frequent urination, thickened and yellowish urates), constipation, dehydration, and swelling of the abdomen and/or throat. Kidney failure is fatal if left untreated; it requires immediate veterinary attention! Treatment varies depending on your iguana's condition.

The cause of kidney disease or failure is sometimes unknown, but a poor diet, extended use of antibiotics and chronic dehydration can definitely cause kidney failure. When the kidneys are damaged, toxins normally filtered by the kidneys build up in the blood, and other chemical imbalances within the body occur. It can be prevented by providing a suitable diet, fresh drinking water at all times, proper humidity levels coupled with frequent misting and/or bathing, and avoiding excessive and unnecessary use of antibiotics. See Protein, Gout and Renal Failure in Reptiles, and Kidney Failure in Green Iguanas by Melissa Kaplan.

Metabolic bone disease: The most common problems with captive green iguanas, also called secondary nutritional hypoparathyroidism or fibrous osteodystrophy. This is disease is very debilitating, and gives the iguana a slow, painful death. MBD most often occurs because the animal is not getting enough calcium in its diet, is eating too much phosphorus, inadequate environmental temperatures, or is not receiving proper amounts of UVB radiation. It can also be a secondary illness; If another disease creates imbalances with the hormones that are involved with calcium absorption, MBD can occur.

What usually happens in the iguana's body, is that to make up for low levels of calcium in the blood (which is needed for muscle nerve functions), the body will take calcium deposits from the bones. Bone density is lowered, so to "strengthen" the bones the body builds fibrous deposits around them, giving the iguana's limbs and jaw an "inflated" bulgy look that is often mistaken for muscle tone. The tip of the lower jaw will also receed, and the iguana's limbs and spine will gradually twist and deform. Bones will become brittle, and will break easily.

Prevention of this disease is simple: Take proper care of your iguana! Your iguana's diet should have a calcium to phosphorus ratio of 2 to 1, temperatures in its environment should be suitable, and your iguana should be receiving UVB lighting. See Carmen Iguana's Metabolic Bone Disease Pages, and Calcium Metabolism and Metabolic Bone Disease by Melissa Kaplan for more information on symptoms, causes and prevention.

Mouthrot (stomatitis): Stomatitis is not a "rotting" of the buccal tissue at all, but is an indication that there is another bacterial infection elsewhere in the body (abcesses may be present on other parts of the body). It typically begins with the iguana being reluctant to eat, and its mouth will produce increased amounts of thickened saliva. Ulcers will develop in the mouth, appearing as yellowish, cheesy-looking pus in small "craters," and teeth may eventually become loose and fall out.

Veterinary attention is absolutely required. Treatment will typically consist of your vet removing infected areas of tissue, then rinsing the mouth with an antiseptic solution buch as Betadine (this should not be attempted on your own, you need to have your vet do this and show you how to rinse the iguana's mouth), and administering systemic antibiotics depending on the infection that caused the stomatitis. Stomatitis can be prevented by properly caring for your iguana by providing an adequate diet and proper housing conditions, and its overall health should be verified by a qualified reptile veterinarian at least once a year. See Ulcerative Stomatitis (Mouthrot) in Reptiles by Melissa Kaplan.

This is, of course, NOT a complete list of health problems in green iguanas, but merely a few common ones you may encounter. For more complete lists, see the Green Iguana Society's Health and Safety page, and Melissa Kaplan's Health, Illness, Injury and Stress article collection. Do not hesitate to consult a qualified reptile vet for advice, as no book or website can compare to an experienced doctor.

Last modified: Wednesday, November 22, 2006

 

Sources:

• Green Iguana Society. 2003. (http://www.greenigsociety.org/)
• Hatfield III, J. W. 1996. Green Iguana: The Ultimate Owner's Manual. Oregon: Dunthorpe Press.
• Kaplan, M. 2002. Anapsid.org. "Iguana Care, Feeding and Socialization." (http://www.anapsid.org/pdf/icfs.pdf)
• Kaplan, M. 2004. Anapsid.org. "Melissa Kaplan's Green Iguana Care Collection." (http://www.anapsid.org/iguana/index.html)
• Rigby-Burdette, C. 1997. The House of Galahad. "Quick Iguana Nutrition FAQ." (http://www.geocities.com/RainForest/9008/faq.html)
• Swofford, J. 2002. The Basking Spot. "Jen Swofford's Iguana Pages." (http://www.baskingspot.com/iguanas/index.html)

 

RELATED LINKS

INTERNAL	EXTERNAL
Claw Trimming
Heating Your Herp	The IguanoPage
Understanding Ultraviolet and Calcium	Iguana Diets - Setting the Record Straight
	Melissa Kaplan's Giant Green Iguana Care Collection
	Iguana Nutrition FAQ
	Jen Swofford's Iguana Pages
	Carmen Iguana's MBD Page
	Iguana Land
	Reptile Rescue Ontario