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I. Introduction Many people are familiar with
leopard
frogs
and may not even realize it, as the Northern leopard frog (Rana
pipiens) are dissected by the millions in many North
American middle and high schools. All leopard frogs belong to
the Ranidae
family
of "true frogs," which also includes American bullfrogs
(R. catesbeianus) wood frogs (R. sylvaticus) and many
others. The worldwide genus Rana formerly included North American true frogs, but Frost et al. 2006 redefined North American amphibians, so Lithobates is potentially the new genus name. There are eight species of leopard frog in North America. Note that since several of these species are threatened or endangered, you will not likely find them as pets. I do not recommend collecting animals from the wild to keep as pets, as this is a serious pressure on already declining amphibian populations:
Like most amphibians, leopard frogs are not the type of pet to be handled because of their very delicate skin. If they must be handled to be examined or transported, wash your hands thoroughly with a mild soap and make sure there is no residue left over. If the frog is large enough, a sort of "pincer" hold around the frog's chest cavity with your fingers under his armpits should restrain him enough. II. Behaviour Leopard frogs spend most of their time either in water hiding from predators, on land looking for prey. If found on land, they will hop in a zig-zag pattern (to confuse the predator) into the nearest body of water. Leopard frogs are typically nocturnal, however they have been heard calling night and day. Species of leopard frog coming from northern regions of the U.S. and from Canada typically hibernate about 3 months of the year (a bit longer for Canadian species). Hibernating your frogs is necessary if you want to breed them the following spring. However if you do not lower the temperatures, the frogs will not eat as much and tend to be lethargic. Although some species can tolerate lower temperatures, 3-4°C (37-39°F) for about 3 months is recommended. After that, warm the frogs up to normal temperatures and resume feeding as normal. III. Diet Adult frogs should be fed every few days (young, growing frogs should be fed daily). They will take live prey, and relish most invertebrates: Night crawler earthworms, crickets, mealworms, silkworms, roaches, wax worms, super worms, etc. All of these can be purchased from either pet stores or ordered from a supplier online. Offer a staple diet of gut-loaded crickets with many variations. Large adults can occasionally be fed a pinky mouse, however more than once a month is not recommended. For adult frogs, dust the prey once a week with a vitamin/mineral supplement, for young frogs dust the prey every second day. Prey can be provided in a small dish. Crickets can be just dropped onto the dry side of the enclosure, however monitor them to make sure they don't hop into water and drown. IV. Housing About 15 gallons of space (in a long-style enclosure, not tall) can house a pair of leopard frogs. A sturdy lid is required, or these frogs could jump out of the enclosure. A marsh, stream or pond edge habitat is suitable. Provide about half-land, half-water: Section off about half of the tank with a piece of plexiglass siliconed in-place at an angle. So that the frogs have a bit more of a foothold, you can silicone some small rocks onto the plexiglass, or spread a thin layer of silicone on it and dust it with sand so that the surface has texture to it. Any soil used should be organic, sterile, and free of perlite (the little, Styrofoam balls found in most potting soils); Keep the soil moist. Non-toxic ferns, grasses and mosses can be planted in the soil, a sterilized leaf-litter can be provided for the frogs to hide under. Sterilized logs and rocks can be added. The water must be at least as deep as the frogs are long (not counting when their hind legs are outstretched). The water must be dechlorinated (either with a chemical chlorine and chloramine neutralizer or by allowing the water to stand in a bucket for at least 24 hours). Filters are not recommended, as the constant splashing or vibrating (depending what type of filter) could stress the frogs; instead, remove feces from the water daily (with a small fish net), partially change the water every week, and every few weeks completely change the water. The water's "floor" can be covered with large pieces of gravel, or sand (although sand, when disturbed, clouds the water). You can also place a few non-toxic aquatic plants, such as duckweed or lily pads (purchased, not collected from the wild), and sterilized rocks or driftwood pieces in the water, but don't crowd the water too much. Because the enclosure is so damp, it must be kept spotlessly clean of feces and dead prey. Bacteria and fungi love moist, warm habitats, and amphibians' delicate skin can easily absorb impurities from an unclean enclosure. V. Heating, Lighting, and Humidity Daytime temperatures should range from 16-22°C (60-72°F), and at night it should drop no lower than 16°C (60°F). The temperature should not go much higher than 30°C (86°F). If your home gets particularly cold, a low-wattage incandescent bulb, or an undertank heating pad (beneath the soil, not the water) can provide some heat. All lighting fixtures should be placed on top of the lid. Allow the frogs a photoperiod of about 12 hours, but during the day they do not like bright light, so avoid placing the aquarium in a brightly lit area. Ultraviolet lighting is not necessary, but may be beneficial to the frogs. Humidity in the enclosure will
be moderate because the soil must be kept moist. Last modified: Wednesday, September 27, 2006 Sources:
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©2005 Christina
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