Substrate, or bedding, is essential for enclosures. There are many alternatives, from potting soil to paper towels, some have advantages other others, and some should be avoided completely.

PARTICULATE SUBSTRATE
Patriculate substrate are those that are composed of lots of smaller particles: Sand, soil, woodchips, etc. Typically, these should be avoided for most species because of the risk that the animal's intestinal tract can become impacted when the substrate is accidentally eaten.

COCONUT HUSK, CORN COB
These substrates can make an enclosure look quite attractive, but a safer substrate, like paper towel, is strongly recommended. Fatal intestinal impactions are all too common with substrates like these.

CYPRESS MULCH
Cypress mulch can quickly raise the humidity levels of an enclosure when dampened. However, if accidentally ingested, it can become lodged in your pet's digestive tract, which can be fatal if left untreated. Also, if the enclosure is not regularly cleaned and disenfected, bacteria and fungi can easily grow in this substrate.

GRAVEL
Very useful for aquatic or semi-aquatic habitats, as it doesn't cloud the water when disturbed. It's also a good drainage layer (underneath the other layers of soil, peat moss, etc.) in a forest habitat, and can help raise the humidity in the enclosure if used this way and water is allowed to sit in the gravel. If used, make sure the pieces of gravel are either much too large to be swallowed accidentally, or are small and smooth enough to pass through the animal's system. Even so, if accidentally ingested, gravel can cause a fatal intestinal impaction.

SAND
Sand can make a desert habitat look very attractive. Very fine, smooth sand seems to be impacted less often if accidentally eaten, it is important not to house small herps on sand (keep them on paper towels until they grow large enough). Silica sand tends to generate dust that irritates the skin and eyes of the animal.

Calcium carbonate sand: Although the product sounds like it could actually be great for your pets, Calci-Sand and others like it have their fair share of problems. Aside from apparently being very hard to clean off cage furniture after being wetted, this sand isn't very easy to digest by your herps, especially small ones. A relatively small amount of this sand, when swallowed, can neutralize your pet's stomach acids, which are required to digest food items. Once neutralized, the stomach acids cannot break down any sand that is later ingested until the stomach can replenish it's supply of acid (which can take days), hence allowing the possibility of sand getting lodged in your reptile or amphibian's intestinal tract. Additionally, users of coloured Calci-Sand have claimed that the dye (although non-toxic) transfers to their herps after long periods of use. Although this isn't a a life-threatening problem, many herp owners would rather see their pets in their true, natural colours. Finally, you should not rely on something uncertain such as accidentally ingesting substrate as "proper" calcium supplementation.

SOIL
Soil is cheap and easily disposed of when soiled. It can be mixed with other matter, such as dead leaves and peat moss to create a nice "forest floor" substrate that's great for fossorial (burrowing) animals. However, like most substrates, it can be accidentally ingested, and you should buy sterile potting soil without the small, styrofoam balls mixed in. Also, be careful of mold growth, soil can become a breeding ground for bacteria and other microorganisms that can be harmful to your pets.

WOOD CHIPS
Although wood chips can be very attractive in many types of enclosure, they are more problem-prone than most other kinds of substrates. Fatal intestinal impactions are common, and some wood chips, such as cedar and other coniferous (trees with needles, such as pine trees) trees give off fumes which are deadly to your reptile or amphibian. Safer alternatives, such as paper towel, are strongly recommended in place of wood chips, even if the package says it's "reptile safe."

SHEET SUBSTRATE
Substrate that consists of one of more large sheets of material is generally much safer than particulate substrate. These are either washed or replaced after being soiled.

CLOTH
Thick, durable cloth lining the floor of the enclosure is a cheap and environment-friendly choice of substrate. It must be cleaned and disinfected when soiled. It is unsuitable for humid enclosures, as it will be a breeding ground for bacteria and molds.

INDOOR/OUTDOOR CARPETING, ASTROTURF
Both of these generally look nicer than paper towels, butcher paper or newspaper, and still allow easy view of the enclosure's inhabitants. It can easily be cut to fit the enclosure, and is not very expensive. Keep an extra piece of the carpeting or astroturf to put in the enclosure while the other is cleaned and disinfected (which should be done whenever dirtied). Indoor/outdoor carpeting is a bit safer to use than astroturf, the edges of astroturf sometimes fray and loose threads can be eaten by your herps. To prevent this, melt the edges carefully so that all threads are contained.

NEWSPAPER
Newspaper, like paper towels and butcher paper, is easy to replace, and allows a non-obstructed view of your herps (very useful for when you need to monitor your herps closely), and is very cheap. However, fumes from the ink used on the papers can supposedly cause health problems in small herps.

PAPER TOWELS, BUTCHER PAPER
Probably the most cost efficient substrate, both paper towls and butcher paper are cheap and easy to replace. They also allow easy view of the enclosure's inhabitants (especially useful if you need to monitor a sick, gravid, quarantined or even potentially ill herp), but aren't very asthetically pleasing, it's hard to create a habitat with a "natural" look if you're using paper towels or butcher paper.

Last modified: Sunday, Septemeber 21, 2003